http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan?hl=en
alt.autos.nissan@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Sentra N14 rear seal - how to do? - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/8652ac7c21c2dbd5?hl=en
* Where is Neutral Safety Switch 96 Sentra? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/895936810300e6fa?hl=en
* $105 for a Neutral Safety Switch !!! - 5 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/e4caf0ca3f5100f8?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sentra N14 rear seal - how to do?
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/8652ac7c21c2dbd5?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 5:47 pm
From: Me
On 5/06/2010 7:51 p.m., Me wrote:
> On 5/06/2010 1:34 p.m., Striker wrote:
>> http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/
>> You should find the info here...
>> Striker
>>
>>
> Thanks - I have the FSM.
> Engine is out - about 4 hours. The seal was leaking badly - as I
> expected. There's a bit of seepage round the sump, so I'll reseal that
> too. I damaged the rubber boot on the lower suspension arm ball joint,
> but I think I can get a replacement boot. Apart from that no real problems.
Actually after starting work on it this morning, it's really much better
to remove the sump anyway, as there are two studs on the seal retainer
that go through the sump lip. I don't know if it would even be possible
to lever off the retainer with the sump in place without risk of
cracking the alloy retainer, and even if this could be done, there would
be no way to get it back in place with a good placement of sealant
between retainer and the sump rim.
So, while dropping the trans might seem less hassle, by the time the
exhaust and sump is removed in situ, lifting the engine out might be the
better way, especially if you don't have a hoist.
The original seal was worn and very very hard (I don't know mileage of
the engine, but guess perhaps 120,000km). There's slight scoring on the
crank, but I'll leave it, as it seems to be scored well inside and away
from where the new seal lips sit. The factory seal was black compound,
both Nissan OEM replacement and non OEM seals are brown - they appear
identical, but Nissan price is about 4 times more.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jun 7 2010 2:37 am
From: Me
On 6/06/2010 12:47 p.m., Me wrote:
> On 5/06/2010 7:51 p.m., Me wrote:
>> On 5/06/2010 1:34 p.m., Striker wrote:
>>> http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/
>>> You should find the info here...
>>> Striker
>>>
>>>
>> Thanks - I have the FSM.
Browsing the FSM looking for torque settings, it says you can't
lift/drop AT trans/engine separately. Not true - I've done it twice.
>> Engine is out - about 4 hours. The seal was leaking badly - as I
>> expected. There's a bit of seepage round the sump, so I'll reseal that
>> too. I damaged the rubber boot on the lower suspension arm ball joint,
>> but I think I can get a replacement boot. Apart from that no real
>> problems.
> Actually after starting work on it this morning, it's really much better
> to remove the sump anyway, as there are two studs on the seal retainer
> that go through the sump lip. I don't know if it would even be possible
> to lever off the retainer with the sump in place without risk of
> cracking the alloy retainer, and even if this could be done, there would
> be no way to get it back in place with a good placement of sealant
> between retainer and the sump rim.
> So, while dropping the trans might seem less hassle, by the time the
> exhaust and sump is removed in situ, lifting the engine out might be the
> better way, especially if you don't have a hoist.
> The original seal was worn and very very hard (I don't know mileage of
> the engine, but guess perhaps 120,000km). There's slight scoring on the
> crank, but I'll leave it, as it seems to be scored well inside and away
> from where the new seal lips sit. The factory seal was black compound,
> both Nissan OEM replacement and non OEM seals are brown - they appear
> identical, but Nissan price is about 4 times more.
>
Job done - perhaps 9-10 hours total. Total parts cost about US$30. No
leaks now. Worst part of the job, placement of PS mounting bracket,
lower heater hose, and the rear engine mount can be a real PITA.
Otherwise just normal, methodical, and tedious.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where is Neutral Safety Switch 96 Sentra?
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/895936810300e6fa?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jun 7 2010 6:47 am
From: SentraMench
I got the console out, and found the quarter in there, but it
wasn't affecting anything. I'm 25 cents richer now. I also found the
inhibitor switch on the trans by having the gf move the gear selector
around as I watched the levers. Thanks, NissTech.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: $105 for a Neutral Safety Switch !!!
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/e4caf0ca3f5100f8?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Jun 7 2010 6:50 am
From: SentraMench
I just called Autozone for a price on a Neutral Safety Switch on a
96 Sentra with autotrans. $105.00 plus tax. What the heck? Is
the US dollar falling that far ??? Geez.............
== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Jun 7 2010 7:01 am
From: "C. E. White"
"SentraMench" <user132384@aol.com> wrote in message
news:22f4fe11-6471-41c2-abf8-9e6a80f41bc9@u7g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
> I just called Autozone for a price on a Neutral Safety Switch on a
> 96 Sentra with autotrans. $105.00 plus tax. What the heck?
> Is
> the US dollar falling that far ??? Geez.............
You might want to check Rock Auto. They list one for around $55.
Courtsey Nissan (an on-line Nissan parts dealer) lists the Genuine
Nissan Neutral Safety Switch for $75. Neither of these include
shipping, so add another $6 to $10 to the cost to cover shipping.
Seems Autozone is not the low cost supplier.
Ed
== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Jun 7 2010 9:28 am
From: Peter Hill
On Mon, 7 Jun 2010 06:50:57 -0700 (PDT), SentraMench
<user132384@aol.com> wrote:
> I just called Autozone for a price on a Neutral Safety Switch on a
>96 Sentra with autotrans. $105.00 plus tax. What the heck? Is
>the US dollar falling that far ??? Geez.............
Have you tried a breakers yard?
--
Peter Hill
Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header
Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!
== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Jun 7 2010 3:15 pm
From: "NissTech"
Jeez dude , quit ur bitching or just keep putting it in neutral to start it
No comments:
Post a Comment