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Today's topics:
* Air force one shoes <free shipping paypal payment>( http://www.cntrade09.com/
) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/f3663d92311aecee?hl=en
* Can I switch back to synthetic oil without flushing? - 11 messages, 5
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/d634669fe952345d?hl=en
* Do I really need new brakes? - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/ee6125974ce7b78f?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Air force one shoes <free shipping paypal payment>( http://www.cntrade
09.com/ )
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/f3663d92311aecee?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Can I switch back to synthetic oil without flushing?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/d634669fe952345d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 11:13 am
From: "A. Nonimus"
Okay, here's the deal, bear with me it may be hard to explain:
At around (just guessing) 5000 miles I had my new Honda serviced and
they recommended I change the oil because even though it was only 5000
miles it was over a year old. They explained that this would make the
car run better and last longer so I went for their medium grade
synthetic oil.
Then, about 5k later I took it back to the same dealer and asked for
an oil change. Not knowing that you shouldn't change back to regular
oil without flushing I told them to put in regular oil. They did.
Now it's 5000 miles later and my light came on for the first time
indicating 15% whatever, for an oil change. I mentioned that I had put
synthetic oil in it once but now am thinking of sticking with regular
oil.
But the guy told me that synthetic oil and regular oil don't mix and
any time you start with synthetic oil, you have to stick with it or
else do a flush first. But then he said, "But with synthetic oil you
don't need to change it as often, so you don't really need an oil
change even though your light came on."
As you can imagine I am now totally confused.
First of all:
Shouldn't the dealer have told me the first time that once I started
on synthetic oil I had to stay with it forever or else flush the
engine?
2nd: When I took it in for the 2nd oil change and told them to put
regular oil in it after they had put synth. in it the first time,
shouldn't they have told me, then: No, we can't do that. Your car has
synthetic in it, so we can't put regular oil in on top of it.?
3rd: Why did my light come on, saying 15% if I don't really need to
change the oil? Is it set according to time, or according to how the
oil is breaking down? (The guy at the shop today said it was just set
by time, to light up after 5k miles. But if that's the case, why has
it never gone off before now? (I have a little over 15k on it.)
4th: How many miles SHOULD I have gotten on the synthetic oil before
changing it? And now that I have changed it anyway, what damage have I
done by switching back to regular oil, and next time should I go with
synthetic or regular??
I think someone is b.s.'ing me. Is it the dealer who sold me the synth
in the first place, or is it the mechanic who is now telling me I
should always stick with synthetic oil and can't change back to
regular oil without flushing first? And since I have already changed
back without flushing, what harm was done?
== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 12:23 pm
From: "C. E. White"
Total BS. Maybe at some point in the distant past there was some truth
to this, but these days, there is no reason to care.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Flushing_Engines_Prior_Synthetics.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils_FAQs.aspx#Mobil_1_Extended_Performance_FAQs5
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switch_Shorter_Drain_Intervals.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/frequent.aspx
Ed
"A. Nonimus" <mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cc07f9fb-8e74-4f36-a8f6-8bb4f2a2bdea@a39g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
> Okay, here's the deal, bear with me it may be hard to explain:
>
> At around (just guessing) 5000 miles I had my new Honda serviced and
> they recommended I change the oil because even though it was only
> 5000
> miles it was over a year old. They explained that this would make
> the
> car run better and last longer so I went for their medium grade
> synthetic oil.
>
> Then, about 5k later I took it back to the same dealer and asked for
> an oil change. Not knowing that you shouldn't change back to regular
> oil without flushing I told them to put in regular oil. They did.
>
> Now it's 5000 miles later and my light came on for the first time
> indicating 15% whatever, for an oil change. I mentioned that I had
> put
> synthetic oil in it once but now am thinking of sticking with
> regular
> oil.
>
> But the guy told me that synthetic oil and regular oil don't mix and
> any time you start with synthetic oil, you have to stick with it or
> else do a flush first. But then he said, "But with synthetic oil you
> don't need to change it as often, so you don't really need an oil
> change even though your light came on."
>
> As you can imagine I am now totally confused.
>
> First of all:
> Shouldn't the dealer have told me the first time that once I started
> on synthetic oil I had to stay with it forever or else flush the
> engine?
>
> 2nd: When I took it in for the 2nd oil change and told them to put
> regular oil in it after they had put synth. in it the first time,
> shouldn't they have told me, then: No, we can't do that. Your car
> has
> synthetic in it, so we can't put regular oil in on top of it.?
>
> 3rd: Why did my light come on, saying 15% if I don't really need to
> change the oil? Is it set according to time, or according to how the
> oil is breaking down? (The guy at the shop today said it was just
> set
> by time, to light up after 5k miles. But if that's the case, why has
> it never gone off before now? (I have a little over 15k on it.)
>
> 4th: How many miles SHOULD I have gotten on the synthetic oil before
> changing it? And now that I have changed it anyway, what damage have
> I
> done by switching back to regular oil, and next time should I go
> with
> synthetic or regular??
>
> I think someone is b.s.'ing me. Is it the dealer who sold me the
> synth
> in the first place, or is it the mechanic who is now telling me I
> should always stick with synthetic oil and can't change back to
> regular oil without flushing first? And since I have already changed
> back without flushing, what harm was done?
== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 3:49 pm
From: "A. Nonimus"
On Jun 15, 12:23 pm, "C. E. White" <cewhi...@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Total BS. Maybe at some point in the distant past there was some truth
> to this, but these days, there is no reason to care.
>
> http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Flushing_...http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils_FAQs.aspx#Mobi...http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switch...http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspxhttp://www.amsoil.com/frequent.aspx
>
> Ed
>
> "A. Nonimus" <mindfulness...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:cc07f9fb-8e74-4f36-a8f6-8bb4f2a2bdea@a39g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Okay, here's the deal, bear with me it may be hard to explain:
>
> > At around (just guessing) 5000 miles I had my new Honda serviced and
> > they recommended I change the oil because even though it was only
> > 5000
> > miles it was over a year old. They explained that this would make
> > the
> > car run better and last longer so I went for their medium grade
> > synthetic oil.
>
> > Then, about 5k later I took it back to the same dealer and asked for
> > an oil change. Not knowing that you shouldn't change back to regular
> > oil without flushing I told them to put in regular oil. They did.
>
> > Now it's 5000 miles later and my light came on for the first time
> > indicating 15% whatever, for an oil change. I mentioned that I had
> > put
> > synthetic oil in it once but now am thinking of sticking with
> > regular
> > oil.
>
> > But the guy told me that synthetic oil and regular oil don't mix and
> > any time you start with synthetic oil, you have to stick with it or
> > else do a flush first. But then he said, "But with synthetic oil you
> > don't need to change it as often, so you don't really need an oil
> > change even though your light came on."
>
> > As you can imagine I am now totally confused.
>
> > First of all:
> > Shouldn't the dealer have told me the first time that once I started
> > on synthetic oil I had to stay with it forever or else flush the
> > engine?
>
> > 2nd: When I took it in for the 2nd oil change and told them to put
> > regular oil in it after they had put synth. in it the first time,
> > shouldn't they have told me, then: No, we can't do that. Your car
> > has
> > synthetic in it, so we can't put regular oil in on top of it.?
>
> > 3rd: Why did my light come on, saying 15% if I don't really need to
> > change the oil? Is it set according to time, or according to how the
> > oil is breaking down? (The guy at the shop today said it was just
> > set
> > by time, to light up after 5k miles. But if that's the case, why has
> > it never gone off before now? (I have a little over 15k on it.)
>
> > 4th: How many miles SHOULD I have gotten on the synthetic oil before
> > changing it? And now that I have changed it anyway, what damage have
> > I
> > done by switching back to regular oil, and next time should I go
> > with
> > synthetic or regular??
>
> > I think someone is b.s.'ing me. Is it the dealer who sold me the
> > synth
> > in the first place, or is it the mechanic who is now telling me I
> > should always stick with synthetic oil and can't change back to
> > regular oil without flushing first? And since I have already changed
> > back without flushing, what harm was done?
Thanks for the reply and links.
I called Honda and confirmed that I had indeed switched back to
regular oil last time I went there.
The guy there assured me that the type of synthetic oil I had used in
the first place was something like a "half and half" type and so it
allowed me to switch back and forth so there was no harm in switching
back to regular oil last time.
However when I told this to the independent mechanic who is servicing
my car today, he said, "What? That's crazy!" But I assured him that I
had already switched to regular oil last time so I may as well use it
again this time.
I read some of the threads about synthetic oil and it sounds to me
like it's controversial at best, in terms of whether or not it is
really "worth" the extra money. Since regular oil changes for my car
go for around $22 on sale and synthetic goes for about 3 times that, I
am skeptical as to whether or not it's really worth it, especially
when I am the kind of person who changes his oil every 3-5k instead of
the 15k so Honda recommends.
One question though: Using regular oil (OR synth oil) is there any
problem with changing it TOO often? The guy at Honda last time said he
really didn't recommend I change it after 5k miles, and I was kind of
shocked that he would say that given that usually they are looking for
ANY way to get me to spend more money there...
== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 3:51 pm
From: "Elmo P. Shagnasty"
In article
<e20caa87-a69d-4c98-9313-4dd9dd6c04f7@u20g2000pru.googlegroups.com>,
"A. Nonimus" <mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote:
> I called Honda and confirmed that I had indeed switched back to
> regular oil last time I went there.
no, you called the dealership--an independent small business, not
related at all to American Honda Motor Manufacturing.
He can do pretty much whatever he wants as he services your car.
Honda didn't sell you a car, and Honda doesn't service your car.
== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 3:54 pm
From: "Elmo P. Shagnasty"
In article
<e20caa87-a69d-4c98-9313-4dd9dd6c04f7@u20g2000pru.googlegroups.com>,
"A. Nonimus" <mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote:
> I read some of the threads about synthetic oil and it sounds to me
> like it's controversial at best, in terms of whether or not it is
> really "worth" the extra money. Since regular oil changes for my car
> go for around $22 on sale and synthetic goes for about 3 times that, I
> am skeptical as to whether or not it's really worth it, especially
> when I am the kind of person who changes his oil every 3-5k instead of
> the 15k so Honda recommends.
There is no substitute for actual facts. Get your oil tested by
Blackstone Labs, do it at varying intervals, and find out exactly what
YOUR driving patterns and car demand with respect to oil changes.
> One question though: Using regular oil (OR synth oil) is there any
> problem with changing it TOO often?
Who's asking--you or your wallet?
Other than paying more money for something that may not be necessary, no.
See my above suggestion on testing your oil. Get the FACTS.
== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 4:02 pm
From: Tegger
"A. Nonimus" <mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote in
news:cc07f9fb-8e74-4f36-a8f6-8bb4f2a2bdea@a39g2000prb.googlegroups.com:
>
> First of all:
> Shouldn't the dealer have told me the first time that once I started
> on synthetic oil I had to stay with it forever or else flush the
> engine?
No, because that's not true. Mineral and synthetic are perfectly
miscible.
Some less-expensive "synthetics" are a combination of mineral and
synthetic.
>
> 2nd: When I took it in for the 2nd oil change and told them to put
> regular oil in it after they had put synth. in it the first time,
> shouldn't they have told me, then: No, we can't do that. Your car has
> synthetic in it, so we can't put regular oil in on top of it.?
No, because that's not true. Mineral and synthetic are perfectly
miscible.
Some less-expensive "synthetics" are a combination of mineral and
synthetic.
>
> 3rd: Why did my light come on, saying 15% if I don't really need to
> change the oil? Is it set according to time, or according to how the
> oil is breaking down? (The guy at the shop today said it was just set
> by time, to light up after 5k miles. But if that's the case, why has
> it never gone off before now? (I have a little over 15k on it.)
What model have you got? What country do you live in?
>
> 4th: How many miles SHOULD I have gotten on the synthetic oil before
> changing it? And now that I have changed it anyway, what damage have I
> done by switching back to regular oil, and next time should I go with
> synthetic or regular??
>
> I think someone is b.s.'ing me. Is it the dealer who sold me the synth
> in the first place, or is it the mechanic who is now telling me I
> should always stick with synthetic oil and can't change back to
> regular oil without flushing first?
The second guy. But he may not be BSing you; he may be genuinely misled.
A lot of people believe that nonsense.
> And since I have already changed back without flushing, what harm was
> done?
None whatsoever. You can change from one to the other with each oil-
change, if you wish.
--
Tegger
== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 4:04 pm
From: Tegger
"A. Nonimus" <mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote in
news:e20caa87-a69d-4c98-9313-4dd9dd6c04f7@u20g2000pru.googlegroups.com:
>
> One question though: Using regular oil (OR synth oil) is there any
> problem with changing it TOO often?
Nope. That's a /good/ thing for your engine. The more the merrier.
--
Tegger
== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 4:07 pm
From: Tegger
"Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in news:elmop-
EAD38D.18515215062010@reserved-multicast-range-NOT-delegated.example.com:
> In article
> <e20caa87-a69d-4c98-9313-4dd9dd6c04f7@u20g2000pru.googlegroups.com>,
> "A. Nonimus" <mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I called Honda and confirmed that I had indeed switched back to
>> regular oil last time I went there.
>
> no, you called the dealership--an independent small business, not
> related at all to American Honda Motor Manufacturing.
>
> He can do pretty much whatever he wants as he services your car.
>
> Honda didn't sell you a car, and Honda doesn't service your car.
Correct! The DEALER did those things.
The dealer is NOT "Honda". They are a totally independent company that owns
a Honda franchise. They can sell you anything they like, whether Honda
approves of it or not. Franchise laws tend to tie automakers' hands when it
comes to this sort of stuff.
--
Tegger
== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 6:29 pm
From: jim beam
On 06/15/2010 03:54 PM, Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article
> <e20caa87-a69d-4c98-9313-4dd9dd6c04f7@u20g2000pru.googlegroups.com>,
> "A. Nonimus"<mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I read some of the threads about synthetic oil and it sounds to me
>> like it's controversial at best, in terms of whether or not it is
>> really "worth" the extra money. Since regular oil changes for my car
>> go for around $22 on sale and synthetic goes for about 3 times that, I
>> am skeptical as to whether or not it's really worth it, especially
>> when I am the kind of person who changes his oil every 3-5k instead of
>> the 15k so Honda recommends.
>
> There is no substitute for actual facts. Get your oil tested by
> Blackstone Labs, do it at varying intervals, and find out exactly what
> YOUR driving patterns and car demand with respect to oil changes.
>
>
>
>> One question though: Using regular oil (OR synth oil) is there any
>> problem with changing it TOO often?
>
> Who's asking--you or your wallet?
>
> Other than paying more money for something that may not be necessary, no.
>
> See my above suggestion on testing your oil. Get the FACTS.
indeed!
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 6:30 pm
From: jim beam
On 06/15/2010 04:04 PM, Tegger wrote:
> "A. Nonimus"<mindfulnessnow@gmail.com> wrote in
> news:e20caa87-a69d-4c98-9313-4dd9dd6c04f7@u20g2000pru.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>>
>> One question though: Using regular oil (OR synth oil) is there any
>> problem with changing it TOO often?
>
>
>
> Nope. That's a /good/ thing for your engine. The more the merrier.
daily? weekly? superstitiously?
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 6:33 pm
From: jim beam
On 06/15/2010 11:13 AM, A. Nonimus wrote:
> Okay, here's the deal, bear with me it may be hard to explain:
>
> At around (just guessing) 5000 miles I had my new Honda serviced and
> they recommended I change the oil because even though it was only 5000
> miles it was over a year old. They explained that this would make the
> car run better and last longer so I went for their medium grade
> synthetic oil.
>
> Then, about 5k later I took it back to the same dealer and asked for
> an oil change. Not knowing that you shouldn't change back to regular
> oil without flushing I told them to put in regular oil. They did.
>
> Now it's 5000 miles later and my light came on for the first time
> indicating 15% whatever, for an oil change. I mentioned that I had put
> synthetic oil in it once but now am thinking of sticking with regular
> oil.
>
> But the guy told me that synthetic oil and regular oil don't mix and
> any time you start with synthetic oil, you have to stick with it or
> else do a flush first. But then he said, "But with synthetic oil you
> don't need to change it as often, so you don't really need an oil
> change even though your light came on."
>
> As you can imagine I am now totally confused.
>
> First of all:
> Shouldn't the dealer have told me the first time that once I started
> on synthetic oil I had to stay with it forever or else flush the
> engine?
>
> 2nd: When I took it in for the 2nd oil change and told them to put
> regular oil in it after they had put synth. in it the first time,
> shouldn't they have told me, then: No, we can't do that. Your car has
> synthetic in it, so we can't put regular oil in on top of it.?
>
> 3rd: Why did my light come on, saying 15% if I don't really need to
> change the oil? Is it set according to time, or according to how the
> oil is breaking down? (The guy at the shop today said it was just set
> by time, to light up after 5k miles. But if that's the case, why has
> it never gone off before now? (I have a little over 15k on it.)
>
> 4th: How many miles SHOULD I have gotten on the synthetic oil before
> changing it? And now that I have changed it anyway, what damage have I
> done by switching back to regular oil, and next time should I go with
> synthetic or regular??
>
> I think someone is b.s.'ing me. Is it the dealer who sold me the synth
> in the first place, or is it the mechanic who is now telling me I
> should always stick with synthetic oil and can't change back to
> regular oil without flushing first? And since I have already changed
> back without flushing, what harm was done?
the guy's just trying to sell you the more expensive stuff -
particularly because you've been talked into it before.
conventional/synthetic oils are completely intercompatible. synthetics
are often better, but i'm not sure it's not worth using them if you're
going to change the oil that frequently.
stick with whatever you prefer. imo, synthetics are worth the money
because they have premium additive packages that keep your seals in good
condition, last much better, they do provably protect better, and they
offer slightly better fuel economy. if you're going to use them, leave
them in for the full manufacturer specified change interval or the one
per the engine computer, not this 5k mile nonsense.
and do NOT get an "engine flush". very bad.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Do I really need new brakes?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/ee6125974ce7b78f?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 3:34 pm
From: "A. Nonimus"
On May 26, 7:04 am, "E. Meyer" <epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
> On 5/24/10 4:14 AM, in article
> 7f35a006-e889-409d-8294-6e2fbd977...@g1g2000pro.googlegroups.com, "A.
>
>
>
> Nonimus" <mindfulness...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On May 20, 8:39 pm, "E. Meyer" <epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
> >> On 5/20/10 4:50 PM, in article Xns9D7EB5885B247teg...@208.90.168.18,
> > OK. Honda recommends it, but my experience
> >> says they don't vibrate when you change the pads, the wear is acceptable (at
> >> least 90k miles between pad changes), and I have not experienced a rotor
> >> destroyed because of a stuck caliper eating off the outer pad. I have
> >> experienced a stuck caliper and the wear indicator signaled the wear prior
> >> to any damage.
>
> >> I do agree that 2mm is time to replace the pads. That's pretty thin.
>
> > See - this is why I suspect my Honda Dealer is lying to me. As you
> > say, "90k miles between pad changes"...
> > This is exactly what my former-mechanic friend said to me, that no way
> > I should need brakes at 14k miles.
>
> > I guess I won't know until I get someone I can trust to open up the
> > brakes and show them to me.
> > Yeah, they have to show them at the Dealer but I figure they just keep
> > an old one with 2mm laying around so they can use that to show me...
>
> Just ask them to show you while they're still on the car. If they have
> already shown you a pads off the car, then you know what they look like. On
> the car look to see what's between the plate and the rotor (big shiny disk
> that gets squeezed by the brake pads). Actually you can easily look at the
> outer pad yourself by simply removing the wheel as if changing a flat.
>
> If, as has been discussed, the inner or outer pad is gone and the other one
> on the same wheel looks like new, you have a stuck caliper. If that is the
> case, repair should be covered under the new car warranty.
Okay, I did finally take my car in and have the brakes looked at by an
independent mechanic.
The guy I wanted to take it to who I trusted is no longer in business
so I took it to the guy who took over his business.
He showed me the brakes. I really didn't know exactly what I was
seeing but I could see the pads were down pretty low. He said 3mm so
that's 1mm more than the Dealership said, after having put about 3000
or so more miles on them. However he said the rotors were also shot
and needed to be replaced. Whether they were or not, I don't know but
the guy seemed trustworthy.
He also showed me the tread left on 2 of my tires and said I could get
a bit more out of them but I may as well replace them now. I could see
that he was right on that, so I figured if the tires were shot the
brakes probably were too.
He replaced 2 tires that had worn unevenly and the brakes and rotors,
an air filter, cleaning up the rear brakes and doing some kind of
maintenance on those, and replacing oil all for around $550. I really
don't know if the rotors needed replacement or not but I decided to
trust him because what else am I gonna do? If I take it back to the
dealer and they say it needs new rotors they would charge me almost
double what he was charging me, and even if they were able to
resurface the rotors (which this guy said there was not enough metal
left to do), then they'd charge me about 2/3 of what it cost me to
replace them here, just to resurface them.
So all in all, if the guy does a good job, I guess it is worth it to
get new brakes and tires etc. now instead of waiting til they become
completely useless.
== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 6:33 pm
From: jim beam
On 06/15/2010 03:34 PM, A. Nonimus wrote:
> On May 26, 7:04�am, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>> On 5/24/10 4:14 AM, in article
>> 7f35a006-e889-409d-8294-6e2fbd977...@g1g2000pro.googlegroups.com, "A.
>>
>>
>>
>> Nonimus"<mindfulness...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> On May 20, 8:39�pm, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>> On 5/20/10 4:50 PM, in article Xns9D7EB5885B247teg...@208.90.168.18,
>>> �OK. Honda recommends it, but my experience
>>>> says they don't vibrate when you change the pads, the wear is acceptable (at
>>>> least 90k miles between pad changes), and I have not experienced a rotor
>>>> destroyed because of a stuck caliper eating off the outer pad. �I have
>>>> experienced a stuck caliper and the wear indicator signaled the wear prior
>>>> to any damage.
>>
>>>> I do agree that 2mm is time to replace the pads. �That's pretty thin. �
>>
>>> See - this is why I suspect my Honda Dealer is lying to me. As you
>>> say, "90k miles between pad changes"...
>>> This is exactly what my former-mechanic friend said to me, that no way
>>> I should need brakes at 14k miles.
>>
>>> I guess I won't know until I get someone I can trust to open up the
>>> brakes and show them to me.
>>> Yeah, they have to show them at the Dealer but I figure they just keep
>>> an old one with 2mm laying around so they can use that to show me...
>>
>> Just ask them to show you while they're still on the car. �If they have
>> already shown you a pads off the car, then you know what they look like. �On
>> the car look to see what's between the plate and the rotor (big shiny disk
>> that gets squeezed by the brake pads). �Actually you can easily look at the
>> outer pad yourself by simply removing the wheel as if changing a flat.
>>
>> If, as has been discussed, the inner or outer pad is gone and the other one
>> on the same wheel looks like new, you have a stuck caliper. �If that is the
>> case, repair should be covered under the new car warranty.
>
> Okay, I did finally take my car in and have the brakes looked at by an
> independent mechanic.
>
> The guy I wanted to take it to who I trusted is no longer in business
> so I took it to the guy who took over his business.
> He showed me the brakes. I really didn't know exactly what I was
> seeing but I could see the pads were down pretty low. He said 3mm so
> that's 1mm more than the Dealership said, after having put about 3000
> or so more miles on them. However he said the rotors were also shot
> and needed to be replaced. Whether they were or not, I don't know but
> the guy seemed trustworthy.
>
> He also showed me the tread left on 2 of my tires and said I could get
> a bit more out of them but I may as well replace them now. I could see
> that he was right on that, so I figured if the tires were shot the
> brakes probably were too.
tire wear does NOT affect brake wear! or vice versa.
>
> He replaced 2 tires that had worn unevenly
did he do an alignment check? faulty alignment is the only thing that
causes uneven tire wear.
> and the brakes and rotors,
> an air filter, cleaning up the rear brakes and doing some kind of
> maintenance on those, and replacing oil all for around $550. I really
> don't know if the rotors needed replacement or not but I decided to
> trust him because what else am I gonna do? If I take it back to the
> dealer and they say it needs new rotors they would charge me almost
> double what he was charging me, and even if they were able to
> resurface the rotors (which this guy said there was not enough metal
> left to do), then they'd charge me about 2/3 of what it cost me to
> replace them here, just to resurface them.
>
> So all in all, if the guy does a good job, I guess it is worth it to
> get new brakes and tires etc. now instead of waiting til they become
> completely useless.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 8:59 pm
From: AZ Nomad
On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 18:33:03 -0700, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>On 06/15/2010 03:34 PM, A. Nonimus wrote:
>> On May 26, 7:04???am, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>>> On 5/24/10 4:14 AM, in article
>>> 7f35a006-e889-409d-8294-6e2fbd977...@g1g2000pro.googlegroups.com, "A.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Nonimus"<mindfulness...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> On May 20, 8:39???pm, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>> On 5/20/10 4:50 PM, in article Xns9D7EB5885B247teg...@208.90.168.18,
>>>> ???OK. Honda recommends it, but my experience
>>>>> says they don't vibrate when you change the pads, the wear is acceptable (at
>>>>> least 90k miles between pad changes), and I have not experienced a rotor
>>>>> destroyed because of a stuck caliper eating off the outer pad. ???I have
>>>>> experienced a stuck caliper and the wear indicator signaled the wear prior
>>>>> to any damage.
>>>
>>>>> I do agree that 2mm is time to replace the pads. ???That's pretty thin. ???
>>>
>>>> See - this is why I suspect my Honda Dealer is lying to me. As you
>>>> say, "90k miles between pad changes"...
>>>> This is exactly what my former-mechanic friend said to me, that no way
>>>> I should need brakes at 14k miles.
>>>
>>>> I guess I won't know until I get someone I can trust to open up the
>>>> brakes and show them to me.
>>>> Yeah, they have to show them at the Dealer but I figure they just keep
>>>> an old one with 2mm laying around so they can use that to show me...
>>>
>>> Just ask them to show you while they're still on the car. ???If they have
>>> already shown you a pads off the car, then you know what they look like ???On
>>> the car look to see what's between the plate and the rotor (big shiny disk
>>> that gets squeezed by the brake pads). ???Actually you can easily look at the
>>> outer pad yourself by simply removing the wheel as if changing a flat.
>>>
>>> If, as has been discussed, the inner or outer pad is gone and the other one
>>> on the same wheel looks like new, you have a stuck caliper. ???If that is the
>>> case, repair should be covered under the new car warranty.
>>
>> Okay, I did finally take my car in and have the brakes looked at by an
>> independent mechanic.
>>
>> The guy I wanted to take it to who I trusted is no longer in business
>> so I took it to the guy who took over his business.
>> He showed me the brakes. I really didn't know exactly what I was
>> seeing but I could see the pads were down pretty low. He said 3mm so
>> that's 1mm more than the Dealership said, after having put about 3000
>> or so more miles on them. However he said the rotors were also shot
>> and needed to be replaced. Whether they were or not, I don't know but
>> the guy seemed trustworthy.
>>
>> He also showed me the tread left on 2 of my tires and said I could get
>> a bit more out of them but I may as well replace them now. I could see
>> that he was right on that, so I figured if the tires were shot the
>> brakes probably were too.
>tire wear does NOT affect brake wear! or vice versa.
>>
>> He replaced 2 tires that had worn unevenly
>did he do an alignment check? faulty alignment is the only thing that
>causes uneven tire wear.
or blown struts/shocks.
== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 9:47 pm
From: jim beam
On 06/15/2010 08:59 PM, AZ Nomad wrote:
> On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 18:33:03 -0700, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>> On 06/15/2010 03:34 PM, A. Nonimus wrote:
>>> On May 26, 7:04???am, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>> On 5/24/10 4:14 AM, in article
>>>> 7f35a006-e889-409d-8294-6e2fbd977...@g1g2000pro.googlegroups.com, "A.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Nonimus"<mindfulness...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> On May 20, 8:39???pm, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>> On 5/20/10 4:50 PM, in article Xns9D7EB5885B247teg...@208.90.168.18,
>>>>> ???OK. Honda recommends it, but my experience
>>>>>> says they don't vibrate when you change the pads, the wear is acceptable (at
>>>>>> least 90k miles between pad changes), and I have not experienced a rotor
>>>>>> destroyed because of a stuck caliper eating off the outer pad. ???I have
>>>>>> experienced a stuck caliper and the wear indicator signaled the wear prior
>>>>>> to any damage.
>>>>
>>>>>> I do agree that 2mm is time to replace the pads. ???That's pretty thin. ???
>>>>
>>>>> See - this is why I suspect my Honda Dealer is lying to me. As you
>>>>> say, "90k miles between pad changes"...
>>>>> This is exactly what my former-mechanic friend said to me, that no way
>>>>> I should need brakes at 14k miles.
>>>>
>>>>> I guess I won't know until I get someone I can trust to open up the
>>>>> brakes and show them to me.
>>>>> Yeah, they have to show them at the Dealer but I figure they just keep
>>>>> an old one with 2mm laying around so they can use that to show me...
>>>>
>>>> Just ask them to show you while they're still on the car. ???If they have
>>>> already shown you a pads off the car, then you know what they look like. ???On
>>>> the car look to see what's between the plate and the rotor (big shiny disk
>>>> that gets squeezed by the brake pads). ???Actually you can easily look at the
>>>> outer pad yourself by simply removing the wheel as if changing a flat.
>>>>
>>>> If, as has been discussed, the inner or outer pad is gone and the other one
>>>> on the same wheel looks like new, you have a stuck caliper. ???If that is the
>>>> case, repair should be covered under the new car warranty.
>>>
>>> Okay, I did finally take my car in and have the brakes looked at by an
>>> independent mechanic.
>>>
>>> The guy I wanted to take it to who I trusted is no longer in business
>>> so I took it to the guy who took over his business.
>>> He showed me the brakes. I really didn't know exactly what I was
>>> seeing but I could see the pads were down pretty low. He said 3mm so
>>> that's 1mm more than the Dealership said, after having put about 3000
>>> or so more miles on them. However he said the rotors were also shot
>>> and needed to be replaced. Whether they were or not, I don't know but
>>> the guy seemed trustworthy.
>>>
>>> He also showed me the tread left on 2 of my tires and said I could get
>>> a bit more out of them but I may as well replace them now. I could see
>>> that he was right on that, so I figured if the tires were shot the
>>> brakes probably were too.
>
>> tire wear does NOT affect brake wear! or vice versa.
>
>
>>>
>>> He replaced 2 tires that had worn unevenly
>
>> did he do an alignment check? faulty alignment is the only thing that
>> causes uneven tire wear.
>
> or blown struts/shocks.
ok. that's typically called "cupping" as opposed to "uneven" though.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 15 2010 10:24 pm
From: AZ Nomad
On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 21:47:31 -0700, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>On 06/15/2010 08:59 PM, AZ Nomad wrote:
>> On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 18:33:03 -0700, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>> On 06/15/2010 03:34 PM, A. Nonimus wrote:
>>>> On May 26, 7:04???am, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>> On 5/24/10 4:14 AM, in article
>>>>> 7f35a006-e889-409d-8294-6e2fbd977...@g1g2000pro.googlegroups.com, "A.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Nonimus"<mindfulness...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> On May 20, 8:39???pm, "E. Meyer"<epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> On 5/20/10 4:50 PM, in article Xns9D7EB5885B247teg...@208.90.168.18,
>>>>>> ???OK. Honda recommends it, but my experience
>>>>>>> says they don't vibrate when you change the pads, the wear is acceptable (at
>>>>>>> least 90k miles between pad changes), and I have not experienced a rotor
>>>>>>> destroyed because of a stuck caliper eating off the outer pad. ???I have
>>>>>>> experienced a stuck caliper and the wear indicator signaled the wear prior
>>>>>>> to any damage.
>>>>>
>>>>>>> I do agree that 2mm is time to replace the pads. ???That's pretty thin. ???
>>>>>
>>>>>> See - this is why I suspect my Honda Dealer is lying to me. As you
>>>>>> say, "90k miles between pad changes"...
>>>>>> This is exactly what my former-mechanic friend said to me, that no way
>>>>>> I should need brakes at 14k miles.
>>>>>
>>>>>> I guess I won't know until I get someone I can trust to open up the
>>>>>> brakes and show them to me.
>>>>>> Yeah, they have to show them at the Dealer but I figure they just keep
>>>>>> an old one with 2mm laying around so they can use that to show me...
>>>>>
>>>>> Just ask them to show you while they're still on the car. ???If they have
>>>>> already shown you a pads off the car, then you know what they look like. ???On
>>>>> the car look to see what's between the plate and the rotor (big shiny disk
>>>>> that gets squeezed by the brake pads). ???Actually you can easily look at the
>>>>> outer pad yourself by simply removing the wheel as if changing a flat
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