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Today's topics:
* Honda Civic LX 2001 exhaust visible smoke - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.honda/t/3aec1a488a53a784?hl=en
* where is the coolant going? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.honda/t/c4fe9eb20831608b?hl=en
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TOPIC: Honda Civic LX 2001 exhaust visible smoke
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.honda/t/3aec1a488a53a784?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 6:43 am
From: "Tinkerer"
"John" <jhy001@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:4C745A42.6070106@earthlink.net...
> This car has failed NJ emission testing. I took it to my
> regular mechanic and he said he saw a bit of smoke when the
> car first started, but nothing much. He doesn't have a
> state reinspection license so he sent me elsewhere. Elsewhere
> told me the same thing. A bit of smoke at start up, none
> revving. And it passed the 3 second rule. i.e. it did not
> last 3 seconds. I don't know if this is an "official" rule.
> He said he didn't see anything really wrong, but it is his
> brother that has the reinspection license, and he is off
> this week.
>
> I got restless. I took it to another place. Their assessment:
> $350 + tax. Have to take off the valve cover and replace the
> PCV valve. This didn't ring true to me, so I declined. They
> then proceeded to charge me for 1 hour of diagnosis: $85 + tax.
> I feel ripped off just for that.
>
> I've since begun calling certified reinspection sites, and
> asking them what they would charge to diagnose it. A half
> hour of diagnosis is common. About $45. Not $90.
>
> Tonight I pulled out my Haynes Repair Manual when I looked
> at the engine and could not find the PCV valve. Aha! Tucked
> down below. I read about its function and replacement. A
> few hoses, squeeze one to hear the ball function, replace
> if not functioning. It also takes air from the air filter.
> It sure sounds like this should have been looked at and tried
> first. No mention of needing to take the valve cover off to
> do this!
>
> One more fact: In NJ you can be required to spend up to $400
> to remedy emission failure. Hmmm. $350 + tax = just under $400.
>
> I'm leaning toward getting a new air filter and PCV valve,
> the hoses if necessary, and trying to get through inspection
> again. Think that will do it?
>
> And what is the consensus here:
>
> Was I ripped off for a full hour of diagnosis?
>
> Would I have been ripped off with a $350 valve cover removal
> and PCV valve extortion, I mean, replacement?
>
> Thanks!
On this side of the pond it is quite common to have an oil change carried
out immediately before an emission test is due, if the engine is a bit iffy,
and it apparently makes a substantial improvement in the result.
--
Tinkerer
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TOPIC: where is the coolant going?
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.honda/t/c4fe9eb20831608b?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 5 2010 7:40 am
From: John
On Aug 24, 7:31 pm, John <jhy...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> On 12/24/2009 5:28 PM, John wrote:
>
> > I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX, 115k miles, that I
> > bought used about 2 years ago. It needed a head
> > gasket (caught and fixed by the dealer under warranty
> > fortunately).
>
> > Over the summer, it started using coolant, about 8 ounces
> > per week. There is no evidence it is going into the oil,
> > and no drips reach the ground. I drive about 300-400 miles
> > per week with it.
>
> An update. Over the course of the first half of this year, the
> coolant usage has gone up to a pint to a quart per day!
>
> I got desperate and had a mechanic put KW Block Seal in it.
> This required a flush first, run for 30 minutes or so with
> water only, dry overnight, flush again next day, put antifreeze
> in again.
>
> It has slowed down the usage, maybe even close to have fixed it.
> I'm not ready to conclude that yet because I have had to overfill
> the overflow tank because it is now so translucent it is almost
> opaque and I can't see the level, even with a flashlight. Today
> I devised a fish tank tube and cork stopper where I can lower it
> into the overflow, cork it, put it out and see where the level is.
>
> Anyway, with at lease partial success, I have also now found out
> about K-Seal which can be added to the antifreeze mixture itself.
> If the level does go down, I'll use that too.
>
> Not to worry about the car, I'm very near getting rid of it anyway.
> It now also needs an A/C clutch and probably compressor. ($150 used
> from a salvage place, i.e. junkyard).
>
> However, I now have another issue... see my next post.
An update. (I've now moved to Google Groups). The KW Block Seal
did not completely seal things. And two weeks after using it, the
engine began overheating to the point the instrument panel was
cutting out, and the battery indicator would come on. The car can
only be run (by jumping) for short periods of time. It needs a new
engine. I now have a used 2007 Toyota Corolla. damagedcars.com
has offered me $1050 for the Honda carcass. I don't know if KW
Block Seal accelerated the demise, but I suspect so. I think it may
have frozen up something that shouldn't have.
The positive result is that I have now replaced the car, which I
should have done sooner.
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