Auto Mobiles Updates: alt.autos.nissan - 20 new messages in 5 topics

alt.autos.nissan
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Today's topics:

* David And Goliath: A Comparison Of Nissan And Toyota - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/9fbb3e0dba8587d3?hl=en
* My 1997 Sentra Eats Brake Pads... Ideas? - 13 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/d69ae1a79d0376cd?hl=en
* Pathfinder vs Frontier - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/d5fd77efc8b245eb?hl=en
* Missing oil - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/cdde96636a1dc818?hl=en
* WHICH OBD AND SOFTWARE? - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/e48056bc0eb1a6b4?hl=en

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TOPIC: David And Goliath: A Comparison Of Nissan And Toyota
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/9fbb3e0dba8587d3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 12:15 am
From: sjmmail2000-247@yahoo.co.uk

Japan's largest and second largest automakers are worlds apart. Last year, Nissan made less than half of the cars the world's number one, Toyota produced. Looking at the February results of both, we see a Goliath that is slowing down and a David that is revving up mightily. What's more, we see a Goliath that [...]
Read More: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2011/03/david-and-goliath-a-comparison-of-nissan-and-toyota/

-----------------------------------
Nissan NewsHub: Latest auto news sourced from websites, portals and blogs
http://www.carshops247.co.uk/news/Nissan.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: My 1997 Sentra Eats Brake Pads... Ideas?
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/d69ae1a79d0376cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 5:55 am
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

>Did you replace the "entire caliper" with a rebuilt one or one from
>a junk yard?

No. I replaced it *twice* with a rebuilt one from two different sources
about 50 miles apart (that's far enough here in NJ to guarantee two
different suppliers in most cases.) Two different mechanics too.

We basically don't have junk yards here in NJ any longer. There are a few,
but they mostly do nothing except plan for their own closure.

>Another thought, was this auto ever involved in a wreck, perhaps
>from that particular quadrant?

Nope. It's been in the family since it had 10,000 miles on it. It now has
220,000 and this just started a few months ago. I'm the only driver.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
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VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/AutoDrill

V8013-R

== 2 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 5:53 am
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

> if it "eats brake pads",then either the pads are too soft,the rotor is
> warped or too grooved,your caliper pins and guides are not free and
> lubricated(sticking caliper),OR ***you ride your brakes***.

Pads replaced numerous times from different sources. I didn't go high end
racing pads yet, but I'd think that I'm not buying cheapo pads each time.

Rotors were replaced.

Calipers replaced.

Hydraulic lines replaced.

Fluid replaced.

Not a two foot driver.

> does a pad on one side of a caliper wear a lot more than the other side?

Yes. Inner pad wears 2X as fast as outer pad on old and new calipers.

> I see a LOT of people driving and their brake lights are going off and on
> while they are NOT actually slowing down for anything;they are probably
> left-foot braking,and their foot is unconsciously riding the pedal.
> (If your reflexes are that bad that you need left-foot braking,then you
> should surrender your license.)

I agree with you, but it's not the case here.
--

V8013-R

== 3 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 5:58 am
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

>> I have a brake caliper that sticks all the time... It wears out the brake
>> pads on the right front wheel in 1/4 the time of any other brake surface
>> on
>> the vehicle. Typically, only the inside pad wears out.
>
> Do you know that it sticks? Or are you deducing this from the
> uneven wear? Does that wheel drag more when you spin it with the
> front jacked up?

Wheel spins freely. We are guessing because of the uneven wear (inside pad
wears more than outside pad.)

> Could there be residual pressure in the hydraulics because of
> another problem? Due to road camber or wheel alignment, this
> just might show itself as wear at the kerb-side disc.
>
> What about excessive play in the RH front wheel bearing.

Not sure... I've looked at it VERY carefully as have two mechanics. We
have all tried all we can think of to figure out the cause including leaving
it with someone I trust to check it over thoroughly for 3-4 days...

It's a true head scratcher for me... And I'm not a complete novice at this
either. I've done my own brakes on vehicles since I was 18. Total mileage
driven is probably close to 750,000. That's a lot of brakes on a lot of
vehicles and this is a first for me.
--

V8013-R

== 4 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 5:59 am
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

> If the wheel/hub gets hot it's rubbing. Something is sticking, either
> piston or sliding pins.
>
> If the wheel/hub doesn't get hot it's wearing under application. That
> implies a cracked rotor.

I'll repeat from my original post because I think it gets lost in the
replies and / or forgotten:

I've changed the pads (3 times)

I've changed the rotor (2 times)

I've changed the caliper (2 times)

I've changed the brake lines (1 time with the first caliper)

And to clarify, "changed" means replaced with new or equivalent.
--

V8013-R

== 5 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 9:45 am
From: Jim Yanik

"Joe AutoDrill" <autodrill@yunx.com> wrote in
news:ez%jp.370$uy2.275@newsfe05.iad:

>
>> does a pad on one side of a caliper wear a lot more than the other
>> side?
>
> Yes. Inner pad wears 2X as fast as outer pad on old and new calipers.

that's a clear sign the caliper is sticking.
Perhaps the new caliper you installed didn't have it's guide pins lubed.

there's some reason why the caliper is not floating as it should,thus the
uneven pad wear.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 6 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 9:49 am
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

>> Yes. Inner pad wears 2X as fast as outer pad on old and new calipers.
>
> that's a clear sign the caliper is sticking.
> Perhaps the new caliper you installed didn't have it's guide pins lubed.
>
> there's some reason why the caliper is not floating as it should,thus the
> uneven pad wear.

I totally agree except from my perspective, it is a clear sign that this is
the third caliper that is sticking... In the same exact way as the second
and the original. I've replaced the entire caliper (not rebuilt, but tossed
and put a different unit on there) twice now.

..Still scratching my head at this one.

V8013-R

== 7 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 9:57 am
From: Jim Yanik

"Joe AutoDrill" <autodrill@yunx.com> wrote in
news:mD%jp.3855$e54.2822@newsfe19.iad:

>
> I'll repeat from my original post because I think it gets lost in the
> replies and / or forgotten:
>
> I've changed the pads (3 times)
>
> I've changed the rotor (2 times)
>
> I've changed the caliper (2 times)
>
> I've changed the brake lines (1 time with the first caliper)
>
> And to clarify, "changed" means replaced with new or equivalent.

I have a 03 Sentra Spec V.
I had to replace the left front caliper bracket because the caliper
guide pins had rusted solid with it,one pad had ground down to barely
1/16". Not even a oxy-MAPP torch could get the old pin out of the bracket.
I was thankful the rotor wasn't damaged.

I noticed there's a rubber sleeve that goes on -one- of the new guide
pins(why,I don't know.it's not the pin boot),perhaps yours has swelled and
is keeping the caliper from floating. I had to replace both guide pins and
installled a new boot kit,that came with a new "sleeve" I mentioned
earlier.
Perhaps your caliper bracket has rust or crud in the pin holes.

Are you using the original guide pins or new ones?
did you use proper high-temp brake lube on them? "Sil-pad" or equal?

BTW,Rock Auto is a great online place to buy parts.
Good service and prices.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 8 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 10:32 am
From: Peter Hill

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 08:59:42 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
<autodrill@yunx.com> wrote:

>> If the wheel/hub gets hot it's rubbing. Something is sticking, either
>> piston or sliding pins.
>>
>> If the wheel/hub doesn't get hot it's wearing under application. That
>> implies a cracked rotor.
>
>I'll repeat from my original post because I think it gets lost in the
>replies and / or forgotten:
>
>I've changed the pads (3 times)
>
>I've changed the rotor (2 times)
>
>I've changed the caliper (2 times)
>
>I've changed the brake lines (1 time with the first caliper)
>
>And to clarify, "changed" means replaced with new or equivalent.

Master cylinder or ABS or your foot then.
--
Peter Hill
Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header
Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

== 9 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 10:45 am
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

> Master cylinder or ABS or your foot then.

No ABS.

My foot will not cause one pad to wear over the other on one wheel only.

I can't see how the MC could do it either.
--

V8013-R

== 10 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 1:17 pm
From: John Henderson

Joe AutoDrill wrote:

> Wheel spins freely. We are guessing because of the uneven wear (inside pad
> wears more than outside pad.)

Seeing it's desperation time, try bleeding the brakes again, but
taking care to let the brake pedal up slowly as you're doing
it.

My Nissan workshop manual mades a point of doing that (no reason
given).

Furthermore, that advice once cured a problem with dragging
brakes on one front wheel that I had with my other vehicle (VW
Transporter/Eurovan). At least the problem stopped when I got my
assistant to change their pumping technique, and that was years
ago. The problem had started only during a routine brake fluid
change in which nothing else was touched.

John

== 11 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 1:29 pm
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

> Seeing it's desperation time, try bleeding the brakes again, but
> taking care to let the brake pedal up slowly as you're doing
> it.
>
> My Nissan workshop manual mades a point of doing that (no reason
> given).
>
> Furthermore, that advice once cured a problem with dragging
> brakes on one front wheel that I had with my other vehicle (VW
> Transporter/Eurovan). At least the problem stopped when I got my
> assistant to change their pumping technique, and that was years
> ago. The problem had started only during a routine brake fluid
> change in which nothing else was touched.

I'll give that a shot, right after I keep the brakes under high pressure
overnight to drive any residual air out of the system...
--

V8013-R

== 12 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 1:48 pm
From: Peter Hill

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 16:29:05 -0400, "Joe AutoDrill"
<autodrill@yunx.com> wrote:

>> Seeing it's desperation time, try bleeding the brakes again, but
>> taking care to let the brake pedal up slowly as you're doing
>> it.
>>
>> My Nissan workshop manual mades a point of doing that (no reason
>> given).
>>
>> Furthermore, that advice once cured a problem with dragging
>> brakes on one front wheel that I had with my other vehicle (VW
>> Transporter/Eurovan). At least the problem stopped when I got my
>> assistant to change their pumping technique, and that was years
>> ago. The problem had started only during a routine brake fluid
>> change in which nothing else was touched.
>
>I'll give that a shot, right after I keep the brakes under high pressure
>overnight to drive any residual air out of the system...

Right this is really stupid. Not been given a LH for RH?
Are the calipers on the right wheel? Bleed at top?
--
Peter Hill
Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header
Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

== 13 of 13 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 1:57 pm
From: "Joe AutoDrill"

> Right this is really stupid. Not been given a LH for RH?
> Are the calipers on the right wheel? Bleed at top?

I guess I can check that... I'd think that three separate mechanics (myself
first, two different repair shops afterwards) would have figured that out
but God knows I've seen stranger things happen!
--

V8013-R

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pathfinder vs Frontier
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/d5fd77efc8b245eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 9:12 am
From: sonofdog

Greetings
I have a 2000 Frontier 3.3L V6 5spd standard and pull a small (~2500lbs)
trailer with small difficulties, being slow, while climbing some passes
in Canadian Rockies. I'm thinking of getting 2004 Pathfinder with 3.5L
auto transmission. Is this a good idea ? I'd love to get newer model of
those with 4L but no $$ source.

TIA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Missing oil
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/cdde96636a1dc818?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 12:24 pm
From: BK

2006 Altima SL V6. 90,000 miles. In the past year I started commuting
to work and do about 80 miles per day.

Service engine light came on several times over the past 7 months,
each time the dealer replaced an electronic module and changed the oil
(which was due to be changed). Finally,when the light came on again,
they noticed that the engine was virtually without oil. They now
believe that this lack of oil is what caused the light to come on.

The car seems to run fine. There is no obvious oil leakage though,
since I live in an apartment, I cannot park in the same space each
day. The car passed an emissions test so it does not appear to be
burning a lot of oil. Car gets good mileage (26.2 mpg according to the
car's computer). I am assuming there is a leak, but no one can seem to
figure out where it's coming from. Dealer seems to be giving up on
this. Could use advice.
TIA

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 2:48 pm
From: willshak

BK wrote the following:
> 2006 Altima SL V6. 90,000 miles. In the past year I started commuting
> to work and do about 80 miles per day.
>
> Service engine light came on several times over the past 7 months,
> each time the dealer replaced an electronic module and changed the oil
> (which was due to be changed). Finally,when the light came on again,
> they noticed that the engine was virtually without oil. They now
> believe that this lack of oil is what caused the light to come on.
>
> The car seems to run fine. There is no obvious oil leakage though,
> since I live in an apartment, I cannot park in the same space each
> day. The car passed an emissions test so it does not appear to be
> burning a lot of oil. Car gets good mileage (26.2 mpg according to the
> car's computer). I am assuming there is a leak, but no one can seem to
> figure out where it's coming from. Dealer seems to be giving up on
> this. Could use advice.
> TIA
>

Find it fast. Do you see white smoke behind your vehicle when driving?
If so, it's burning it, and fouling your catalytic converter at the same
time.
Check under your car for oil puddles whenever you go to drive it.
Check your dipstick regularly, and especially after anyone services it.

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 28 2011 3:21 pm
From: willshak

willshak wrote the following:
> BK wrote the following:
>> 2006 Altima SL V6. 90,000 miles. In the past year I started commuting
>> to work and do about 80 miles per day.
>>
>> Service engine light came on several times over the past 7 months,
>> each time the dealer replaced an electronic module and changed the oil
>> (which was due to be changed). Finally,when the light came on again,
>> they noticed that the engine was virtually without oil. They now
>> believe that this lack of oil is what caused the light to come on.
>>
>> The car seems to run fine. There is no obvious oil leakage though,
>> since I live in an apartment, I cannot park in the same space each
>> day. The car passed an emissions test so it does not appear to be
>> burning a lot of oil. Car gets good mileage (26.2 mpg according to the
>> car's computer). I am assuming there is a leak, but no one can seem to
>> figure out where it's coming from. Dealer seems to be giving up on
>> this. Could use advice.
>> TIA
>>
>
> Find it fast. Do you see white smoke behind your vehicle when driving?
> If so, it's burning it, and fouling your catalytic converter at the
> same time.
> Check under your car for oil puddles whenever you go to drive it.
> Check your dipstick regularly, and especially after anyone services it.
>

One more thing. Check your radiator to see if there is oil in there. If
so, you have a blown head gasket.

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

==============================================================================
TOPIC: WHICH OBD AND SOFTWARE?
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/e48056bc0eb1a6b4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 12:15 am
From: AS

scantool.net allows you to buy advanced software that can only be used
with their OBD hardware interface.

Palmerperformance.com, sells you the same software (they make the
software for scantool.net, afaik) but you can use it with any compatible
OBD hardware interface

I have the ScanXL professional and I soon realized I spent more time
configuring the software than actually diagnosing vehicles.

My other software and hardware is Auterra (auterraweb.com). This one is
easy to use, works well but it has not been glitch free (some ford
interface issues, etc.). I have the serial version, which allows me to
use it from a PC and a palm Zire pda.

Both the auterra and the palmer are multiprotocol, handling all the obd
protocols. Between the 2, hands down the Auterra.

Sorry but I cannot comment on the blazt other than it seems to be
limited on the protocols it can handle.

Good luck,

nucleus wrote:
> am thinking about purchasing a scan tool (and software) for use
> on a 09 versa with a laptop but want to have the diversity of helping
> relatives with other brands of autos. anybody here have experience
> with scantool.net versus blazt.biz?
>
> i've read not to purchase the version from the china location on
> ebay.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 12:32 am
From: AS

Forgot to mention, make sure your hardware is CAN compatible.

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Auto Mobiles Updates

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

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