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Today's topics:
* cautionary tale - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/472e080b968b9e31?hl=en
* Muffler for 94 Accord - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/d0870930ae45b747?hl=en
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TOPIC: cautionary tale
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/472e080b968b9e31?hl=en
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== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 6 2009 4:41 pm
From: Greg
Tegger wrote:
>> Even with zero maintenance, you're got to wonder if they abused the
>> engine somehow. Assuming the valves were set correctly at some time,
>> it takes a lot of seat wear to eat up the clearance. (Right?)
> I think it also has a lot to do with oil change intervals. The engine in
> question may have had an inadequate frequency of oil changes.
That was my first thought, that the owner had run some additive-free,
buck-a-quart, SA rated oil, or hadn't bothered to change it at all. But
in that case, it seems you'd expect accelerated cam lobe wear that would
tend to open the lash clearance, if anything.
Does the minuscule volume of blow-by oil aid valve seat lubrication in
any way?
Regarding the original picture, I've got to agree with Jim, that lots of
high RPM and/or heat has worn or peened the valve to death. I'd like to
see pics of the seats too.
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Dec 7 2009 10:45 am
From: "zzznot"
> I haven't seen a valve that bad since my brother in law pulled in the
> driveway with his Fiat just barely able to make it up hills in the early
> 80's.
Hey I resemble that remark, sold off my 1971 Fiat circa 1979
in just about that state! Replacedit for with Alfa and drove it until it
ate a (sodium-filled) valve about eight years later.
So far, in my experience, Hondas don't do that!
J.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Dec 7 2009 7:59 pm
From: jim beam
On 12/06/2009 04:41 PM, Greg wrote:
> Tegger wrote:
>
>>> Even with zero maintenance, you're got to wonder if they abused the
>>> engine somehow. Assuming the valves were set correctly at some time,
>>> it takes a lot of seat wear to eat up the clearance. (Right?)
>
>> I think it also has a lot to do with oil change intervals. The engine
>> in question may have had an inadequate frequency of oil changes.
>
> That was my first thought, that the owner had run some additive-free,
> buck-a-quart, SA rated oil, or hadn't bothered to change it at all. But
> in that case, it seems you'd expect accelerated cam lobe wear that would
> tend to open the lash clearance, if anything.
>
> Does the minuscule volume of blow-by oil aid valve seat lubrication in
> any way?
>
> Regarding the original picture, I've got to agree with Jim, that lots of
> high RPM and/or heat has worn or peened the valve to death. I'd like to
> see pics of the seats too.
the seats are fine.
the damage you see is not just heat [and definitely not peening], but
actual hot gas erosion. if you've ever used an oxy-acetylene cutting
torch, you'll have created gouges like this in the steel you cut, only
on a larger scale.
bottom line, there are actually two potential causes of this:
1. insufficient valve lash causing leakage, heating and then erosion.
2. defect in the valve - a "soft spot" could start the leakage, and
erosion takes hold from there.
#1 is completely avoidable.
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Dec 7 2009 8:03 pm
From: jim beam
On 12/06/2009 12:54 PM, Tegger wrote:
> jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote in
> news:B-adndINYprBWYbWnZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> On 12/06/2009 05:37 AM, Tegger wrote:
>>>
>>> I suspect this valve
>>> came fom an engine that may have NEVER had its valved checked.
>>
>>
>> i suspect it was done, but done badly. should leave the feeler gauge
>> in when snugging up the lock nut so the adjuster doesn't move.
>>
>
>
> I suppose you could do it that way, but I've been doing valves for almost
> 30 years and have never left the gauge in.
>
> All I do is to make careful note of the position of the screwdriver slot at
> the correct clearance setting, and make a tiny adjustment down to allow for
> the slight gain in clearance you get when you snug the nut again.
>
>
well, provided the locking nuts are not crudded up, you can leave the
gauge in and the adjuster won't turn as you tighten the lock nut. makes
it a quick one-handed operation. if there's crud in the threads, you
need the screwdriver and two hands as you say.
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TOPIC: Muffler for 94 Accord
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/d0870930ae45b747?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Dec 7 2009 9:51 am
From: Peabody
Peabody says...
>
>
>I need to replace the original muffler on my 94 Accord (63k miles),
>and it appears it will cost close to US$300 to have a Honda
>original equimpment "bolt-in" replacement done. Has anyone had any
>luck with the muffler chains like Midas, etc.? Are they less
>expensive? Are the mufflers any good?
Thanks very much for the responses.
What about a direct replacement that's made by someone else? I
could order it, and do the replacement myself, assuming whatever
bolts are involved aren't frozen.
It looks like the Bosal 281-365 is such a part. Even available at
Amazon, but cheaper at RockAuto and elsewhere, and also a lot
cheaper than the genuine Honda part.
http://info.rockauto.com/Bosal/Detail2.html?03806691.gif
It's not clear what else I would need in the way of flanges,
gaskets, etc., but there's a Bosal kit (254-999) that RockAuto sells
for about $8.
Well I guess the risk here is that if it blows through in a couple
years, I have no guarantee from anyone to fall back on. So this
would depend on Bosal being pretty much the same quality as Honda.
Anyone have experience with Bosal mufflers?
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