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Today's topics:
* Electrical problem - long story - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/0060b9edaf9b20cf?hl=en
* 1997 Pathfinder: Can't get new alternator in place - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/af72861dc808032e?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electrical problem - long story
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/0060b9edaf9b20cf?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Mar 19 2010 8:12 pm
From: Jim Yanik
willshak <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in
news:K-6dnYkzIdGdnznWnZ2dnUVZ_uGqnZ2d@supernews.com:
> I already have the full 97 nissan pickup manual, but I don't see my
> problem explained.
Of course not.Why would a factory manual discuss problems caused by amateur
modified wiring?
But examining the electrical schematic may show you places to check.
> I disconnected the battery and will wait til tomorrow to hook it back
> up. We'll see what happens.
> The last time I did that, it was just a day before a state inspection,
> and I failed because the computer didn't have enough mileage to reset
> all the error messages.
> I got it down to 2 before they would pass the truck at a
> re-inspection. The other 2 reset after a few days. I've got 2 weeks
> before the annual inspection is due.
>
>
Hmm,if your OBD-II port is not working,they may fail it...some states use
it for their inspection,instead of a tailpipe exhaust analyzer.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 20 2010 1:55 pm
From: willshak
willshak wrote the following:
> Jim Yanik wrote the following:
>> willshak <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in news:K-
>> 6dnY0zIdFRQD7WnZ2dnUVZ_uGqnZ2d@supernews.com:
>>
>>
>>> NissTech wrote the following:
>>>
>>>> The first thing I would do is to use a DVOM and check for power on
>>>> both sides of the fuse , if the add on components have an inline
>>>> fuse check that also.
>>>>
>>>> Next check for power at the component .
>>>>
>>>> Last but not least make sure you have a good ground.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "willshak" <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:X6WdnfNcOeER9T_WnZ2dnUVZ_tcAAAAA@supernews.com...
>>>>
>>>>> I have a 1997 Nissan XE 4x4 PU 2.4l,4 cylinder, 5 speed stick. It
>>>>> has about 68,000 miles on the odometer. I have had it since brand
>>>>> new.
>>>>> Over the years I have added some electrical stuff that required
>>>>> tapping into the fuse box.
>>>>> A. Driving lights.
>>>>> B. Keyless entry with remote.
>>>>> C. Extra cigarette lighter sockets for XM radio and GPS.
>>>>> D. Scangauge II that plugs into the OBD port to give up to the
>>>>> second vehicle operations, MPH, RPM, MPG, TPS, water temp,
>>>>> alternator voltage, and other stuff.
>>>>> All have been working fine until yesterday. I bought a new Garmin
>>>>> NUVI GPS to replace the old one I had installed.
>>>>> The new GPS could not use the old GPS's power cable, so I had to
>>>>> remove the old cable that was stuck in behind other stuff.
>>>>> This cable had been getting power from an aftermarket cigarette
>>>>> lighter than I had installed under the dash center in front of the
>>>>> heater vent. I went to install the new power cable but found that
>>>>> it was shorter than the old one. This required that I move the
>>>>> power socket closer to the left side of the underdash mounting. I
>>>>> had no problem moving it, but I had to remove the two wires from
>>>>> it to take the shell out of the mount to get to the 2 screws
>>>>> holding it to the dash.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't know what happened, but after I started the car, The GPS
>>>>> did work from its newly moved power socket, but....
>>>>> 1. The Scanguage II did not show anything but a blank screen.
>>>>> 2. The Radio did not work and could not be turned on. The XM radio
>>>>> module worked and had a signal from the satellite, but no sound.
>>>>> 3. The driving lights did not come on from the switch.
>>>>> I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and all were OK. I even
>>>>> removed the 3 taps to see if the radio would come back on. It didn't.
>>>>> The worse thing was that the OBD socket was apparently not getting
>>>>> power. I plugged a regular OBD II reader into the socket and it
>>>>> too had a blank screen, and just beeped.
>>>>> 4. Lastly, the engine was idling at about 500 RPM according to the
>>>>> dash tach. It should be about 800 RPM.
>>>>> I took it for a ride and, it could be my imagination, but the
>>>>> engine seemed to be missing a little. It wasn't a dead cylinder
>>>>> type of miss. I couldn't hear it, and the engine wasn't
>>>>> shuddering, but I felt it a little. It was more like the fuel
>>>>> injectors were not delivering the right amount of fuel into the
>>>>> cylinders.
>>>>> Anyway, that's my story so far. If anyone can shed some light on
>>>>> this, I would appreciate it.
>>>>> --
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill
>>>>> In Hamptonburgh, NY
>>>>> In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
>>>>> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
>>> New problem not discovered before. The AC does not blow cold air.
>>> The AC indicator light has the blue light, so it is not a blown
>>> cigarette lighter fuse, as you correctly blamed the some time ago
>>> when my AC wasn't working and even the blue light was out.. My cig
>>> lighter fuse is OK and the cig lighter works. There is a fuse in the
>>> fuse box for Radio/AC, which could be the problem with the radio and
>>> AC, but it too is OK as checked with an Ohmmeter. Perhaps the fuse
>>> box is bad?
>>> Still I don't think that is the problem with the OBD socket not
>>> working.
>>> I was wondering if disconnecting the battery for a while and then
>>> reconnecting it would kinda reboot the computer as it does with home
>>> computers.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> yes,that will clear the memory and "reboot" it(meaning the ECU has to
>> relearn your system's sensors.) I'd be worried that the OBD port is
>> not working.
>>
>> I can't believe there are recent cars without master power
>> distribution in the engine compartment,with a main fuse and perhaps
>> major branch fuses.
>>
>> www.nissanhelp.com you can DL Nissan factory service manuals,ONE
>> section per 24hr period.
>> DL the electrical section,check the schematics.
>>
>> a few days,and you'll have the most needed parts of the service
>> manual for your vehicle,archived on your PC or a flash drive(PDF
>> files),ready for printout as needed.
>>
>>
>
> I already have the full 97 nissan pickup manual, but I don't see my
> problem explained.
> I disconnected the battery and will wait til tomorrow to hook it back
> up. We'll see what happens.
> The last time I did that, it was just a day before a state inspection,
> and I failed because the computer didn't have enough mileage to reset
> all the error messages.
> I got it down to 2 before they would pass the truck at a
> re-inspection. The other 2 reset after a few days. I've got 2 weeks
> before the annual inspection is due.
>
>
Just an update:
I hooked up the battery this morning and nothing had changed.
I checked the battery and got a 12.5 Volt reading without the engine
running, so the alternator is keeping it charged, but still .
OBD port not working
No Radio
No AC
Brake light lit on dash with brake off.
Battery icon on dash dimly lit.
Idling at about 500 RPM.
I still feel that slight engine hesitation in my gut when driving.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 20 2010 4:23 pm
From: Jim Yanik
willshak <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in
news:NM6dnSkYe5fSqzjWnZ2dnUVZ_t2knZ2d@supernews.com:
> willshak wrote the following:
>> Jim Yanik wrote the following:
>>> willshak <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in news:K-
>>> 6dnY0zIdFRQD7WnZ2dnUVZ_uGqnZ2d@supernews.com:
>>>
>>>
>>>> NissTech wrote the following:
>>>>
>>>>> The first thing I would do is to use a DVOM and check for power on
>>>>> both sides of the fuse , if the add on components have an inline
>>>>> fuse check that also.
>>>>>
>>>>> Next check for power at the component .
>>>>>
>>>>> Last but not least make sure you have a good ground.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "willshak" <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:X6WdnfNcOeER9T_WnZ2dnUVZ_tcAAAAA@supernews.com...
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have a 1997 Nissan XE 4x4 PU 2.4l,4 cylinder, 5 speed stick.
>>>>>> It has about 68,000 miles on the odometer. I have had it since
>>>>>> brand new.
>>>>>> Over the years I have added some electrical stuff that required
>>>>>> tapping into the fuse box.
>>>>>> A. Driving lights.
>>>>>> B. Keyless entry with remote.
>>>>>> C. Extra cigarette lighter sockets for XM radio and GPS.
>>>>>> D. Scangauge II that plugs into the OBD port to give up to the
>>>>>> second vehicle operations, MPH, RPM, MPG, TPS, water temp,
>>>>>> alternator voltage, and other stuff.
>>>>>> All have been working fine until yesterday. I bought a new Garmin
>>>>>> NUVI GPS to replace the old one I had installed.
>>>>>> The new GPS could not use the old GPS's power cable, so I had to
>>>>>> remove the old cable that was stuck in behind other stuff.
>>>>>> This cable had been getting power from an aftermarket cigarette
>>>>>> lighter than I had installed under the dash center in front of
>>>>>> the heater vent. I went to install the new power cable but found
>>>>>> that it was shorter than the old one. This required that I move
>>>>>> the power socket closer to the left side of the underdash
>>>>>> mounting. I had no problem moving it, but I had to remove the two
>>>>>> wires from it to take the shell out of the mount to get to the 2
>>>>>> screws holding it to the dash.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't know what happened, but after I started the car, The GPS
>>>>>> did work from its newly moved power socket, but....
>>>>>> 1. The Scanguage II did not show anything but a blank screen.
>>>>>> 2. The Radio did not work and could not be turned on. The XM
>>>>>> radio module worked and had a signal from the satellite, but no
>>>>>> sound. 3. The driving lights did not come on from the switch.
>>>>>> I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and all were OK. I even
>>>>>> removed the 3 taps to see if the radio would come back on. It
>>>>>> didn't. The worse thing was that the OBD socket was apparently
>>>>>> not getting power. I plugged a regular OBD II reader into the
>>>>>> socket and it too had a blank screen, and just beeped.
>>>>>> 4. Lastly, the engine was idling at about 500 RPM according to
>>>>>> the dash tach. It should be about 800 RPM.
>>>>>> I took it for a ride and, it could be my imagination, but the
>>>>>> engine seemed to be missing a little. It wasn't a dead cylinder
>>>>>> type of miss. I couldn't hear it, and the engine wasn't
>>>>>> shuddering, but I felt it a little. It was more like the fuel
>>>>>> injectors were not delivering the right amount of fuel into the
>>>>>> cylinders.
>>>>>> Anyway, that's my story so far. If anyone can shed some light on
>>>>>> this, I would appreciate it.
>>>>>> --
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>> In Hamptonburgh, NY
>>>>>> In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
>>>>>> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
>>>> New problem not discovered before. The AC does not blow cold air.
>>>> The AC indicator light has the blue light, so it is not a blown
>>>> cigarette lighter fuse, as you correctly blamed the some time ago
>>>> when my AC wasn't working and even the blue light was out.. My cig
>>>> lighter fuse is OK and the cig lighter works. There is a fuse in
>>>> the fuse box for Radio/AC, which could be the problem with the
>>>> radio and AC, but it too is OK as checked with an Ohmmeter. Perhaps
>>>> the fuse box is bad?
>>>> Still I don't think that is the problem with the OBD socket not
>>>> working.
>>>> I was wondering if disconnecting the battery for a while and then
>>>> reconnecting it would kinda reboot the computer as it does with
>>>> home computers.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> yes,that will clear the memory and "reboot" it(meaning the ECU has
>>> to relearn your system's sensors.) I'd be worried that the OBD port
>>> is not working.
>>>
>>> I can't believe there are recent cars without master power
>>> distribution in the engine compartment,with a main fuse and perhaps
>>> major branch fuses.
>>>
>>> www.nissanhelp.com you can DL Nissan factory service manuals,ONE
>>> section per 24hr period.
>>> DL the electrical section,check the schematics.
>>>
>>> a few days,and you'll have the most needed parts of the service
>>> manual for your vehicle,archived on your PC or a flash drive(PDF
>>> files),ready for printout as needed.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I already have the full 97 nissan pickup manual, but I don't see my
>> problem explained.
>> I disconnected the battery and will wait til tomorrow to hook it back
>> up. We'll see what happens.
>> The last time I did that, it was just a day before a state
>> inspection, and I failed because the computer didn't have enough
>> mileage to reset all the error messages.
>> I got it down to 2 before they would pass the truck at a
>> re-inspection. The other 2 reset after a few days. I've got 2 weeks
>> before the annual inspection is due.
>>
>>
>
> Just an update:
> I hooked up the battery this morning and nothing had changed.
> I checked the battery and got a 12.5 Volt reading without the engine
> running, so the alternator is keeping it charged, but still .
> OBD port not working
> No Radio
> No AC
> Brake light lit on dash with brake off.
> Battery icon on dash dimly lit.
> Idling at about 500 RPM.
> I still feel that slight engine hesitation in my gut when driving.
>
and you still haven't done what NissTech suggested.
You remind me of guys I used to work with;they'd ask for help,then when you
suggested something,they didn't bother to try it.
I'm outta here. good luck.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 1997 Pathfinder: Can't get new alternator in place
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/af72861dc808032e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 20 2010 9:02 am
From: Jake
Replacing the alternator on my 1997 Pathfinder. I got the old one out
no problem. Now I'm trying to put the new one in, and I just can't
get it in place. The lower bolt goes through two tabs on the
alternator, one in front and one in back. Those two tabs have to fit
around the mounting bracket on the vehicle, and I just can't get it.
It seems like the tabs are too close together and they won't fit. But
I measured it against the one I took out and it seems to be exactly
the same size.
Any trick to doing this? I tried attaching the upper bolt first,
hoping that would help me get it aligned, but it still didn't work.
I've spent a couple hours on this by now. Is filing or grinding the
tabs down a bit an option?
Thanks in advance, Jake.
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 20 2010 12:21 pm
From: "Anyolmouse"
"Jake" <jacoblmueller@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4c0f7c47-c4b2-4de8-b953-a282c9fb7270@n39g2000prj.googlegroups.com...
> Replacing the alternator on my 1997 Pathfinder. I got the old one out
> no problem. Now I'm trying to put the new one in, and I just can't
> get it in place. The lower bolt goes through two tabs on the
> alternator, one in front and one in back. Those two tabs have to fit
> around the mounting bracket on the vehicle, and I just can't get it.
> It seems like the tabs are too close together and they won't fit. But
> I measured it against the one I took out and it seems to be exactly
> the same size.
>
> Any trick to doing this? I tried attaching the upper bolt first,
> hoping that would help me get it aligned, but it still didn't work.
> I've spent a couple hours on this by now. Is filing or grinding the
> tabs down a bit an option?
>
> Thanks in advance, Jake.
Try rounding the EDGES of the tabs just enough to remove any burrs and
to make the alignment not so critical when you install it.
--
We have met the enemy and he is us-- Pogo
Anyolmouse
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 20 2010 11:36 am
From: cselby@mts.net
>>
>> Any trick to doing this? I tried attaching the upper bolt first,
>> hoping that would help me get it aligned, but it still didn't work.
>> I've spent a couple hours on this by now. Is filing or grinding the
>> tabs down a bit an option?
>>
>> Thanks in advance, Jake.
>
There is a sliding insert in the back mounting ear. It's there for
slight differences in the spread of the mounting ears and allows the
alt to be remounted easily. Use a hammer and gently push it out
towards the rear. This should give the clearance to line up the alt
and shove the bolt in. Tightening the bolt will slide that insert
into snug position.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Mar 20 2010 12:47 pm
From: Jake
Thanks for the help, finally got it.
I thought there was something up with that little cylinder in the back
mounting ear. Didn't realize I could adjust it. But before I read
your advice I went to work with the dremmel, rounding off the corners
of the alternator mounting tabs, the mounting bracket, and the
insert. That's what got me there. I'll know for next time on the
insert. Thanks again.
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