Friday, October 1, 2010

alt.autos.nissan - 3 new messages in 2 topics - digest

alt.autos.nissan
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan?hl=en

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Today's topics:

* 97 Nissan PU 4x4 noise under vehicle - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/4e3a94ecf3fd0ba1?hl=en
* Slow to reduce RPM - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/0bbf138f3c9762a4?hl=en

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TOPIC: 97 Nissan PU 4x4 noise under vehicle
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/4e3a94ecf3fd0ba1?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 29 2010 4:33 pm
From: Winston


On 9/29/2010 3:40 PM, willshak wrote:
> Winston wrote the following:
>> On 9/29/2010 1:46 PM, willshak wrote:
>>> willshak wrote the following:
>>>> Screeching noise coming from under vehicle when driving. It varies in pitch and loudness through the accelerating cycle but stops when vehicle reaches ~50 mph. It will return when the speed drops below 50. The noise remains when coasting with the clutch pushed in or when transmission is in neutral.
>>>> I pulled the rear brake drums, but the pads are good and there is nothing loose in there.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I took the truck out for a test ride of about 1/2 mile today (down the street and back).
>>> The noise started as soon as I started to move, almost before the speedometer started to move, and it is a rotational noise. The rotational noise is also of a higher rpm than it would be with a wheel turning (maybe 2-3x), so it is not a wheel bearing. I now believe that it is the drive shaft center
>>> bearing.
>>> I should have waited until after dark for the test drive. It was 75º F out and there were a lot of neighbors outside. They heard me coming and watched me go by. I was embarrassed.
>>> This truck is 13 years old, but only has 78,000 miles on the odometer.
>>> I'm taking it into the local mechanic tomorrow morning.
>>
>> Oil level in the transfer case?
>>
>> --Winston
>>
>
> It's more of a high pitched noise, not the growling type of noise affiliated with bad gears and bearings which are internally cased.
> I have had this truck since new and there has never been any evidence of any fluids ever having leaked from any parts. All parts that contain fluids are clean and there has never been any evidence of any leakage on the part of the driveway where I always park. This includes the crankcase, manual
> transmission, differential, fuel tank, brake lines, or radiator.
> I suppose I will find out tomorrow.

Was the transfer case oil level correct during your last
15,000 mile change?

--Winston

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TOPIC: Slow to reduce RPM
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/0bbf138f3c9762a4?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 30 2010 12:00 pm
From: "YDOD"


I have a 2006 Xtrail with a 5 speed manual transmission. When I accelerate
from a standing start, I find that the engine takes a long time to slow down
when I take my foot off the gas while shifting from first gear to second
gear. This makes for a rough gear change because the engine is revving too
fast for second gear at the moment the clutch is let out. It is also hard on
the synchromesh. Is there any way to fix this problem other than
accelerating and changing gears very slowly? My mechanic says that this is
all set up in the computer and there is no way to change it.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Sep 30 2010 4:59 pm
From: Anyolmouse


On Sep 30, 2:00 pm, "YDOD" <walker7...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have a 2006 Xtrail with a 5 speed manual transmission. When I accelerate
> from a standing start, I find that the engine takes a long time to slow down
> when I take my foot off the gas while shifting from first gear to second
> gear. This makes for a rough gear change because the engine is revving too
> fast for second gear at the moment the clutch is let out. It is also hard on
> the synchromesh. Is there any way to fix this problem other than
> accelerating and changing gears very slowly? My mechanic says that this is
> all set up in the computer and there is no way to change it.

Might try double clutching. Shift out of first, let the clutch out,
push the clutch back in and shift to second gear as you would normally
do. Used to work in the good old days.


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