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Today's topics:
* Nissan Murano CVT - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/a158449dafa0ed07?hl=en
* 91 Nissan Sentra 1.6 4speed manual IAC question- - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/aede1ec0ebefc352?hl=en
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TOPIC: Nissan Murano CVT
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/a158449dafa0ed07?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Dec 28 2010 5:31 pm
From: Jim Yanik
willshak <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in
news:hfOdnY0d57GSwofQnZ2dnUVZ_oOdnZ2d@supernews.com:
> Jerry G. wrote the following:
>> I am curious to know... When at a light waiting for a few minutes, is
>> it harmful to put the CVT in to neutral?
it doesn't hurt them to put it into neutral when you're stopping
somewhere,so why should it hurt at a light,as long as the car is not
moving?
>>
>> Also, if approaching a stop, and if the vehicle is rolling at less
>> than maybe 5 mph, will it do damage to the CVT to put it in to
>> neutral?
What purpose is that for?
actually,you can put an automatic into neutral at any time.
I guess it's necessary if "unintended acceleration" occurs(runaway/stuck
throttle).
I once put an auto tranny car into -reverse- when I began sliding on ice
and couldn't brake to a stop before hitting the car in front of me,it was a
pushbutton shift 63 Dodge Polara.It worked,I stopped immediately and even
began going backwards,didn't hit the car in front of me.
I don't think you can do that with modern automatics.
>>
>>
>> Jerry G.
>>
>>
>
> I know nothing about CVTs, but does the CVT have hill-hold like the
> automatics have?
does the CVT have a torque converter or an electric clutch?
Torque converters have "creep",clutches don't.
> I drive a standard shift (5 speed) and I just depress the clutch while
> holding the brake pedal down until I get a chance to move..
>
For hillholding,I use the handbrake that is between the front seats;that is
what it's designed for.
Generally,auto trannies don't need hillholding,they already have enough
creep built in,except for really steep hills.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 29 2010 8:42 am
From: willshak
Jim Yanik wrote the following:
> willshak <willshak@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in
> news:hfOdnY0d57GSwofQnZ2dnUVZ_oOdnZ2d@supernews.com:
>
>
>> Jerry G. wrote the following:
>>
>>> I am curious to know... When at a light waiting for a few minutes, is
>>> it harmful to put the CVT in to neutral?
>>>
>
> it doesn't hurt them to put it into neutral when you're stopping
> somewhere,so why should it hurt at a light,as long as the car is not
> moving?
>
>
>>> Also, if approaching a stop, and if the vehicle is rolling at less
>>> than maybe 5 mph, will it do damage to the CVT to put it in to
>>> neutral?
>>>
>
> What purpose is that for?
> actually,you can put an automatic into neutral at any time.
> I guess it's necessary if "unintended acceleration" occurs(runaway/stuck
> throttle).
>
> I once put an auto tranny car into -reverse- when I began sliding on ice
> and couldn't brake to a stop before hitting the car in front of me,it was a
> pushbutton shift 63 Dodge Polara.It worked,I stopped immediately and even
> began going backwards,didn't hit the car in front of me.
> I don't think you can do that with modern automatics.
>
I also did that when braking on snow or ice downhill. With the foot on
the brake, shift into reverse and apply gas.
I last had to do that in about 1996 in a 1995 Ford Crown Vic.
That's when I had to drive in snow or icy conditions.
Now, I just wait for the highway dept. to clean the roads.
>
>>> Jerry G.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> I know nothing about CVTs, but does the CVT have hill-hold like the
>> automatics have?
>>
>
> does the CVT have a torque converter or an electric clutch?
> Torque converters have "creep",clutches don't.
>
>
>> I drive a standard shift (5 speed) and I just depress the clutch while
>> holding the brake pedal down until I get a chance to move..
>>
>>
>
> For hillholding,I use the handbrake that is between the front seats;that is
> what it's designed for.
> Generally,auto trannies don't need hillholding,they already have enough
> creep built in,except for really steep hills.
>
>
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 91 Nissan Sentra 1.6 4speed manual IAC question-
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/aede1ec0ebefc352?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 29 2010 9:56 am
From: robbie
On Dec 27, 5:55 pm, robbie <robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have some driveability issues and wanted to know what symptoms a bad/
> failing idle air control valve would have-
> First- upon first cranking and until the engine reaches normal
> operating temperature the idle is around 2500-3000 rpm
> Then when at idle afterwards the idle oscillates from about 800-1300
> rpm
> When taking off from standing the car has symptoms like it is starved
> for fuel - shudder, lack of power, etc. - if you let off the throttle
> then apply more gently all the power is back and drives normally.
> Things that have been checked:
> fuel pressure- both at idle and at throttle- checked while driving- is
> within specs (I forget the exact PSI)
> when acting up the fuel pressure INCREASES slightly, like the
> injectors are not opening?
> EGR valve and EGR control have been checked and ruled out. The EGR I
> know can cause similar symptoms but doesn't seem to be the culprit.
> All vacuum/intake hoses/etc have been checked for vacuum leaks- all
> small lines were replaced.
> The MAF is working and the ground was checked to make sure it was
> getting grounded properly
>
> At highway cruising speeds (50-70mph) the car is smooth with good
> power and acceleration.
> At lower speeds when you press quickly on the throttle you will get
> bucking and hesitation like you are in the wrong gear or are running
> out of fuel. Also when running the AC all symptoms are magnified
> somewhat- especially starting from standing- the car will almost
> die...
>
> I had an injector go out completely and I replaced it but can
> injectors fail intermittently? that would explain my problem but it
> doesn't seem really likely?
> Thanks for any advice on what to check!
> -rw
The EGR control solenoid- any way to check that? I think it may be bad.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 29 2010 12:11 pm
From: "Joe AutoDrill"
I just had the exact same symptoms on a 1997 Sentra. turned out to be a bad
distributor stalk (or whatever the real name is).
Did plugs. Did wires. Did cap and innards. All worked fine for a few
hundred miles then it started again until finally, I got stuck with no spark
on the side of the road.
Felt like a timing belt blew, but there was plenty of compression.
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook
V8013-R
"robbie" <robbie.h.wilson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:119a50d1-cc73-4d99-9191-ecbb53add64b@t35g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
>I have some driveability issues and wanted to know what symptoms a bad/
> failing idle air control valve would have-
> First- upon first cranking and until the engine reaches normal
> operating temperature the idle is around 2500-3000 rpm
> Then when at idle afterwards the idle oscillates from about 800-1300
> rpm
> When taking off from standing the car has symptoms like it is starved
> for fuel - shudder, lack of power, etc. - if you let off the throttle
> then apply more gently all the power is back and drives normally.
> Things that have been checked:
> fuel pressure- both at idle and at throttle- checked while driving- is
> within specs (I forget the exact PSI)
> when acting up the fuel pressure INCREASES slightly, like the
> injectors are not opening?
> EGR valve and EGR control have been checked and ruled out. The EGR I
> know can cause similar symptoms but doesn't seem to be the culprit.
> All vacuum/intake hoses/etc have been checked for vacuum leaks- all
> small lines were replaced.
> The MAF is working and the ground was checked to make sure it was
> getting grounded properly
>
> At highway cruising speeds (50-70mph) the car is smooth with good
> power and acceleration.
> At lower speeds when you press quickly on the throttle you will get
> bucking and hesitation like you are in the wrong gear or are running
> out of fuel. Also when running the AC all symptoms are magnified
> somewhat- especially starting from standing- the car will almost
> die...
>
> I had an injector go out completely and I replaced it but can
> injectors fail intermittently? that would explain my problem but it
> doesn't seem really likely?
> Thanks for any advice on what to check!
> -rw
>
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