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* 91 Nissan Sentra 1.6 4speed manual question about timing- - 3 messages, 3
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http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/dead845dbec56614?hl=en
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TOPIC: 91 Nissan Sentra 1.6 4speed manual question about timing-
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/dead845dbec56614?hl=en
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== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 1:17 pm
From: nucleus
is your scanning tool sophisticated enough to tell you the
condition of your spark plugs and plug wires during sudden
acceleration?
if not, have you tried NEW spark plugs? theory is that increased
combustion chamber pressures during sudden opening of the
butterfly, can cause marginal plugs to misfire.
have the plug wires ever been replaced in all those miles (heat
soak cycles)?
On Jan 23, 5:40 pm, robbie <robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jan 21, 4:18 pm, nucleus <rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > haynes manual for GA16DE engine (includes '91) states ignition
> > timing should be 10 degrees BTDC (US) for manual transmission
> > with idle set at 650 rpm.
>
> > it is normal for spark timing to advance as engine speed increases,
> > i do not have info as to amount of advance at specific rpms.
>
> > On Jan 19, 4:38 pm, robbie <robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > I purchased a Consult unit and am running ConZult free software on my
> > > laptop to get the following numbers:
> > > at idle, the timing is 11-12 degrees and when you increase idle up to
> > > about 2500 and back the reading goes up to 40-44 degrees the returns
> > > to 11-12. i'm really thinking this isn't normal and since I have
> > > already replaced the distributor I'm thinking i have a worn timing
> > > chain which allows such a great fluctuation. does anyone else agree
> > > before I start tearing into the valve cover to see what the top end
> > > looks like? the engine has 224k miles, so it is something to think
> > > about. Would this be able to cause drivability issues that i have been
> > > battling? hesitation/bucking on acceleration, lack of power at low
> > > end? Thanks to all who have time to reply. This is my first foray
> > > into diagnostic equipment, and those readings looked weird to me! If i
> > > am way off then someone school me quickly- i am trying to learn!
> > > -robbie
>
> Well at least one user thinks that this is the case and there's not
> much play in my timing chain. It seems to have decent power when the
> speed and rpms are up but its the acceleration during daily stop and
> go driving where the stumbling occurs. it really feels fuel starved,
> but that end has been checked. I am wondering if the coil could be
> weak since i don't have an accurate multimeter to test it's ohms
> reading while hot versus cold... i have never really been stuck on
> reapiring these minor problems before but this stumbling has me
> STUMPED. Anyone care to chime in again? I really have tested for a lot
> of different issues and have ruled out things like: temp sensor/o2
> sensor/EGR valve/vacuum leaks/etc but have made no progress. I have 2
> different distributors that also have been checked out and unless they
> both have bad sensor/control units in them then that item is ruled out
> as well.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 25 2011 2:41 pm
From: robbie
On Jan 24, 4:17 pm, nucleus <rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> is your scanning tool sophisticated enough to tell you the
> condition of your spark plugs and plug wires during sudden
> acceleration?
>
> if not, have you tried NEW spark plugs? theory is that increased
> combustion chamber pressures during sudden opening of the
> butterfly, can cause marginal plugs to misfire.
>
> have the plug wires ever been replaced in all those miles (heat
> soak cycles)?
>
> On Jan 23, 5:40 pm, robbie <robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Jan 21, 4:18 pm, nucleus <rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > > haynes manual for GA16DE engine (includes '91) states ignition
> > > timing should be 10 degrees BTDC (US) for manual transmission
> > > with idle set at 650 rpm.
>
> > > it is normal for spark timing to advance as engine speed increases,
> > > i do not have info as to amount of advance at specific rpms.
>
> > > On Jan 19, 4:38 pm, robbie <robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > > I purchased a Consult unit and am running ConZult free software on my
> > > > laptop to get the following numbers:
> > > > at idle, the timing is 11-12 degrees and when you increase idle up to
> > > > about 2500 and back the reading goes up to 40-44 degrees the returns
> > > > to 11-12. i'm really thinking this isn't normal and since I have
> > > > already replaced the distributor I'm thinking i have a worn timing
> > > > chain which allows such a great fluctuation. does anyone else agree
> > > > before I start tearing into the valve cover to see what the top end
> > > > looks like? the engine has 224k miles, so it is something to think
> > > > about. Would this be able to cause drivability issues that i have been
> > > > battling? hesitation/bucking on acceleration, lack of power at low
> > > > end? Thanks to all who have time to reply. This is my first foray
> > > > into diagnostic equipment, and those readings looked weird to me! If i
> > > > am way off then someone school me quickly- i am trying to learn!
> > > > -robbie
>
> > Well at least one user thinks that this is the case and there's not
> > much play in my timing chain. It seems to have decent power when the
> > speed and rpms are up but its the acceleration during daily stop and
> > go driving where the stumbling occurs. it really feels fuel starved,
> > but that end has been checked. I am wondering if the coil could be
> > weak since i don't have an accurate multimeter to test it's ohms
> > reading while hot versus cold... i have never really been stuck on
> > reapiring these minor problems before but this stumbling has me
> > STUMPED. Anyone care to chime in again? I really have tested for a lot
> > of different issues and have ruled out things like: temp sensor/o2
> > sensor/EGR valve/vacuum leaks/etc but have made no progress. I have 2
> > different distributors that also have been checked out and unless they
> > both have bad sensor/control units in them then that item is ruled out
> > as well.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
new plugs and wires have been done with no improvement. i am
suspicious of the coil but there's no good way to test it.
i have wondered about the maf sensor but it is supposed to set of the
CEL- which never went off and used to occasionally flash when it was
running poorly but the codes always checked 55
(all clear)
robbie wilson
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 25 2011 4:52 pm
From: Me
On 26/01/2011 11:41 a.m., robbie wrote:
> On Jan 24, 4:17 pm, nucleus<rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> is your scanning tool sophisticated enough to tell you the
>> condition of your spark plugs and plug wires during sudden
>> acceleration?
>>
>> if not, have you tried NEW spark plugs? theory is that increased
>> combustion chamber pressures during sudden opening of the
>> butterfly, can cause marginal plugs to misfire.
>>
>> have the plug wires ever been replaced in all those miles (heat
>> soak cycles)?
>>
>> On Jan 23, 5:40 pm, robbie<robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Jan 21, 4:18 pm, nucleus<rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>> haynes manual for GA16DE engine (includes '91) states ignition
>>>> timing should be 10 degrees BTDC (US) for manual transmission
>>>> with idle set at 650 rpm.
>>
>>>> it is normal for spark timing to advance as engine speed increases,
>>>> i do not have info as to amount of advance at specific rpms.
>>
>>>> On Jan 19, 4:38 pm, robbie<robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>> I purchased a Consult unit and am running ConZult free software on my
>>>>> laptop to get the following numbers:
>>>>> at idle, the timing is 11-12 degrees and when you increase idle up to
>>>>> about 2500 and back the reading goes up to 40-44 degrees the returns
>>>>> to 11-12. i'm really thinking this isn't normal and since I have
>>>>> already replaced the distributor I'm thinking i have a worn timing
>>>>> chain which allows such a great fluctuation. does anyone else agree
>>>>> before I start tearing into the valve cover to see what the top end
>>>>> looks like? the engine has 224k miles, so it is something to think
>>>>> about. Would this be able to cause drivability issues that i have been
>>>>> battling? hesitation/bucking on acceleration, lack of power at low
>>>>> end? Thanks to all who have time to reply. This is my first foray
>>>>> into diagnostic equipment, and those readings looked weird to me! If i
>>>>> am way off then someone school me quickly- i am trying to learn!
>>>>> -robbie
>>
>>> Well at least one user thinks that this is the case and there's not
>>> much play in my timing chain. It seems to have decent power when the
>>> speed and rpms are up but its the acceleration during daily stop and
>>> go driving where the stumbling occurs. it really feels fuel starved,
>>> but that end has been checked. I am wondering if the coil could be
>>> weak since i don't have an accurate multimeter to test it's ohms
>>> reading while hot versus cold... i have never really been stuck on
>>> reapiring these minor problems before but this stumbling has me
>>> STUMPED. Anyone care to chime in again? I really have tested for a lot
>>> of different issues and have ruled out things like: temp sensor/o2
>>> sensor/EGR valve/vacuum leaks/etc but have made no progress. I have 2
>>> different distributors that also have been checked out and unless they
>>> both have bad sensor/control units in them then that item is ruled out
>>> as well.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>> - Show quoted text -
>
> new plugs and wires have been done with no improvement. i am
> suspicious of the coil but there's no good way to test it.
> i have wondered about the maf sensor but it is supposed to set of the
> CEL- which never went off and used to occasionally flash when it was
> running poorly but the codes always checked 55
> (all clear)
> robbie wilson
Not sure if a fouled / malfunctioning MAF sensor would always set a CEL.
If there's no reading from it at all, then probably yes, but if the
voltage is fluctuating and incorrect as described in the link below,
perhaps not.
link:
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/nissan_sentra_maf/sentra_maf_one_1.php
Which refers to a later model, but still a GA 16 DE engine, which when I
look at posts above is what you seem to have (my mistake - I thought the
GA 16 "DE" was introduced later than '90/91).
Are either of the distributors you have dirty inside from oil leaking
from the internal seal on the shaft? (not from the main O-ring seal
between the distributor and rocker cover) That's also a common problem
once they've got up there in mileage, and contrary to what Nissan told
me, relatively easy and cheap to fix yourself.
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