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Today's topics:
* Irwell is correct. Manual transmissions are best. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/9e13ce7644212876?hl=en
* 91 Nissan Sentra 1.6 4speed manual question about timing- - 2 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/dead845dbec56614?hl=en
* 2011 NISMO Nissan GT-R Racing Competition - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/977eddb91e427a24?hl=en
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TOPIC: Irwell is correct. Manual transmissions are best.
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/9e13ce7644212876?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 22 2011 12:00 pm
From: "hls"
"Bjorn" <gosinn@gmail.com> wrote in message news:e32d5c90-464e-
http://www.nyteknik.se/nyheter/fordon_motor/bilar/article3067585.ece
http://techon.nikkeibp.co.jp/english/NEWS_EN/20080707/154383/
That is no answer to my challenge. These are not in public use, as
I stipulated in my post.
AFAIK there is still no system that I know of that meets your claims:
" This is actually something that is tested and implemented.
It is a cheap and reliable way to set up a driverless public
transport."
It may be in tests but it is not publicly implemented.
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TOPIC: 91 Nissan Sentra 1.6 4speed manual question about timing-
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/dead845dbec56614?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 23 2011 3:40 pm
From: robbie
On Jan 21, 4:18 pm, nucleus <rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> haynes manual for GA16DE engine (includes '91) states ignition
> timing should be 10 degrees BTDC (US) for manual transmission
> with idle set at 650 rpm.
>
> it is normal for spark timing to advance as engine speed increases,
> i do not have info as to amount of advance at specific rpms.
>
> On Jan 19, 4:38 pm, robbie <robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I purchased a Consult unit and am running ConZult free software on my
> > laptop to get the following numbers:
> > at idle, the timing is 11-12 degrees and when you increase idle up to
> > about 2500 and back the reading goes up to 40-44 degrees the returns
> > to 11-12. i'm really thinking this isn't normal and since I have
> > already replaced the distributor I'm thinking i have a worn timing
> > chain which allows such a great fluctuation. does anyone else agree
> > before I start tearing into the valve cover to see what the top end
> > looks like? the engine has 224k miles, so it is something to think
> > about. Would this be able to cause drivability issues that i have been
> > battling? hesitation/bucking on acceleration, lack of power at low
> > end? Thanks to all who have time to reply. This is my first foray
> > into diagnostic equipment, and those readings looked weird to me! If i
> > am way off then someone school me quickly- i am trying to learn!
> > -robbie
Well at least one user thinks that this is the case and there's not
much play in my timing chain. It seems to have decent power when the
speed and rpms are up but its the acceleration during daily stop and
go driving where the stumbling occurs. it really feels fuel starved,
but that end has been checked. I am wondering if the coil could be
weak since i don't have an accurate multimeter to test it's ohms
reading while hot versus cold... i have never really been stuck on
reapiring these minor problems before but this stumbling has me
STUMPED. Anyone care to chime in again? I really have tested for a lot
of different issues and have ruled out things like: temp sensor/o2
sensor/EGR valve/vacuum leaks/etc but have made no progress. I have 2
different distributors that also have been checked out and unless they
both have bad sensor/control units in them then that item is ruled out
as well.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 23 2011 5:32 pm
From: Me
On 24/01/2011 12:40 p.m., robbie wrote:
> On Jan 21, 4:18 pm, nucleus<rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> haynes manual for GA16DE engine (includes '91) states ignition
>> timing should be 10 degrees BTDC (US) for manual transmission
>> with idle set at 650 rpm.
>>
>> it is normal for spark timing to advance as engine speed increases,
>> i do not have info as to amount of advance at specific rpms.
>>
>> On Jan 19, 4:38 pm, robbie<robbie.h.wil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I purchased a Consult unit and am running ConZult free software on my
>>> laptop to get the following numbers:
>>> at idle, the timing is 11-12 degrees and when you increase idle up to
>>> about 2500 and back the reading goes up to 40-44 degrees the returns
>>> to 11-12. i'm really thinking this isn't normal and since I have
>>> already replaced the distributor I'm thinking i have a worn timing
>>> chain which allows such a great fluctuation. does anyone else agree
>>> before I start tearing into the valve cover to see what the top end
>>> looks like? the engine has 224k miles, so it is something to think
>>> about. Would this be able to cause drivability issues that i have been
>>> battling? hesitation/bucking on acceleration, lack of power at low
>>> end? Thanks to all who have time to reply. This is my first foray
>>> into diagnostic equipment, and those readings looked weird to me! If i
>>> am way off then someone school me quickly- i am trying to learn!
>>> -robbie
>
> Well at least one user thinks that this is the case and there's not
> much play in my timing chain. It seems to have decent power when the
> speed and rpms are up but its the acceleration during daily stop and
> go driving where the stumbling occurs. it really feels fuel starved,
> but that end has been checked. I am wondering if the coil could be
> weak since i don't have an accurate multimeter to test it's ohms
> reading while hot versus cold... i have never really been stuck on
> reapiring these minor problems before but this stumbling has me
> STUMPED. Anyone care to chime in again? I really have tested for a lot
> of different issues and have ruled out things like: temp sensor/o2
> sensor/EGR valve/vacuum leaks/etc but have made no progress. I have 2
> different distributors that also have been checked out and unless they
> both have bad sensor/control units in them then that item is ruled out
> as well.
MAF sensor? Symptoms sound right. I'm not sure of position of and type
of MAF sensor in a '91, but by mid '90s (GA15/16 "DE") they are a "hot
wire" type mounted just above the throttle body, and they frequently
fail. OEM replacement is not cheap, but you might find someone offering
reconditioned units at about 1/2 OEM price.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 2011 NISMO Nissan GT-R Racing Competition
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.nissan/t/977eddb91e427a24?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 23 2011 11:13 pm
From: sjmmail2000-247@yahoo.co.uk
NISMO, Nissan's performance division, unveiled the NISMO GT-R Racing Competition at the Tokyo Auto Salon. The 2011 Nissan GT-R RC (Racing Competition) has been stripped to make it lighter and fitted with a stiffer suspension system, lightweight components, a welded roll cage, air jacks and an ATL 120-liter safety fuel tank. The NISMO GT-R RC [...]
Read More: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/revmodscom/~3/Wqbkegtpjno/
-----------------------------------
Nissan NewsHub: Latest auto news sourced from websites, portals and blogs
http://www.carshops247.co.uk/news/Nissan.html
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