You mean like this?
First make sure your body prep and any body work is DONE. What I mean by that is do not skip a step. You sand starting with 400 or 600 and you end with 1000. Do not skip a grit in between. It WILL show. Then get a really good quality lacquer based Primer. DO NOT SKIMP!! Yes you can get that in a spray can. Do not let anyone tell you you cannot. I get it all of the time. just bought some Plasti Koat sandable Primer that IS lacquer at the local Car Quest. I have also found it hidden as Valspar sandable "ENAMEL" Primer at Michaels Craft Stores. Even thought it says Enamel on the front of the can. Read the back. It states that it is lacquer base. You can also get other brands at automotive paint supply stores. It says right on the cans "For Professional Use ONLY" They will still sell it to you. LOL! It is very important that you get the lacquer primer. It dries lightning fast and it is just better.
Oh Wile you are at the Automotive Paint Supply store. Get yourself these really neat sanding foam pads from 3-M. Get the Ultra-Fine gray ones. They are 500 grit but wet sanding they are more like 800 to 1000. I always finish off all of my prep work with those. That is also what we did at the Custom Paint Shop I use to work at.
Now this is the trick to getting all of this stuff to work for what you want. You have to Prime and sand and prime and sand and prime and sand. so you want to do a 3 coat prime session. Let the primer dry for about 5 minutes in between coats. This is why you want lacquer primer. You cannot do this with enamels. You let that session dry for about an hour. Do your wet sanding with that sanding pad I told you about. If not, use 1000 or 1500 paper. You have to do it with water running over the body. Not under water. Not dipping the paper into water and sanding. Let the water run over the area as you sand. That keeps the paper clean and you do not start scratching deep gouges into the body. Take a clean paper towel and dab up the water. Do not wipe and do not use any cloth that will get lint on the body. Hey I often use my daughter's hair dryer. Or just let it sit and dry off. Then repeat the priming process. I usually do about 3 of these sessions. I can promise you that you will not get any scratches showing up in your paint, nor will you get any parting lines ghost back. You will also have a very straight body. Also try not to dig in with your finger tips when you are sanding. Try to lay you fingers flat on the body. Or use a small flexible foam block. sand lightly too. Not to much pressure.
Now I used, on this camaro body, PPG black toner. That is the blackest black on the market. Then I Cleared it with Global automotive urethane clear. All shot through my automotive paint gun. But this all can be done with an air brush or even with spray cans. It really is all in the prep work.
matt
To: StockSSDragRacing@
From: superpro140@
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 22:42:42 -0700
Subject: [StockSSDragRacing] Model Car Question?
For the builders in the group, what is the best way to prep a body and to put down a near flawless black paint job? Any paint recommendations?
Thanks,
Steve.
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