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Today's topics:
* 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating episodes.
- 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
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TOPIC: 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating
episodes.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
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== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 30 2011 10:15 am
From: jim beam
On 08/30/2011 04:14 AM, Tegger wrote:
> Meatman<KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote in news:3879eca7-519c-4e3d-9ac1-
> cf523673a3f6@i9g2000yqk.googlegroups.com:
>
>>
>> Not head-gasket. .....I retraced my/and brother's test and confirmed
>> this in my case, at least: Ran car well up to temp (several hours).
>> Know that BOTH fans should run when A/C is on. They
>> weren't...HOWEVER...with only condenser fan running I took a weak
>> stick/twig and spun the fan blade manually (rad fan on pass side)...it
>> would start/stop after a few rev's or would would run continuous for
>> maybe a minute, always ridiculously slow and just barely getting
>> along. 265k on this fan motor, mind you. Further, I put probes in
>> connector at fan motor and proper voltage was continuous for 10
>> mins....but no fan spin unless I 'helped' it as above. Therefore,
>> it's the motor IMHO given the continuous power at connector and fact
>> that it runs, then falters after external help.
>>
>
>
>
> I agree with your findings.
>
> My suspicions arose from the fact that it's far more common for the timers
> to fail than for the motor to fail. New motors are close to $400. Honda
> builds them VERY well.
>
honda doesn't build them, they buy them in. and they charge about 10x
what you could buy them for if you were sourcing them from their
original supplier. if you were buying retail. which of course they
are not.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 31 2011 12:56 am
From: Meatman
Tigger & Beamer:
-
Thanks kindly, as always. Veeery fair point on the thermo-switches
switching against a hung motor...But actually, methinks, that
'switching is switching' in general...it does what it does and doesn't
care if the motor runs or not...and only adds to the 'ultimate fatigue
failure' level/count. In and of itself, switching against a hung
motor is no more fatiguing than anything else. But at 265k on this
motor & switches, normal expected lifespan AND extra switching due to
overheat due to flagging fan motor, become part and parcel. At any
other point (100k) in the car's life I would be waaay less wary of the
extra switching caused by the failing motor/overheat. So, I'll keep
watch, indeed.
-
And as for the head-gask: I know yous guys work a lot, read a lot,
suffer through our gibberish, and try to respond accurately/promptly
given all of that. But, dadgummit, Beamer, you gave me tons of good
useful stuff in the h-gasket response, but, I said that there was no
overnight/cold-start odor. Not a slap, B. Just sorry you went that
far in the response....cause you wrote A TON!
-
Thanks dudes. K.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 31 2011 7:46 am
From: jim beam
On 08/31/2011 12:56 AM, Meatman wrote:
> Tigger& Beamer:
> -
> Thanks kindly, as always. Veeery fair point on the thermo-switches
> switching against a hung motor...But actually, methinks, that
> 'switching is switching' in general...it does what it does and doesn't
> care if the motor runs or not...and only adds to the 'ultimate fatigue
> failure' level/count. In and of itself, switching against a hung
> motor is no more fatiguing than anything else. But at 265k on this
> motor& switches, normal expected lifespan AND extra switching due to
> overheat due to flagging fan motor, become part and parcel. At any
> other point (100k) in the car's life I would be waaay less wary of the
> extra switching caused by the failing motor/overheat. So, I'll keep
> watch, indeed.
switching is not just switching, unfortunately. the load is highly
relevant. if it's a reactive load, which the coils in a motor are, you
can get extensive arcing on the switch contacts, and thus you need a
much bigger switch capacity than for a non-reactive load like an
incandescent light bulb, even of the same nominal power draw. now, if
you're switching a motor that is actually free to spin, your power draw
drops significantly once running and switch-off reaction, the one where
you get the arcing, is minimized. if the motor is not spinning, not
only is the draw greater, but you've got no spinning commutator
interrupting the arcing, so the switch can be over-loaded.
> -
> And as for the head-gask: I know yous guys work a lot, read a lot,
> suffer through our gibberish, and try to respond accurately/promptly
> given all of that. But, dadgummit, Beamer, you gave me tons of good
> useful stuff in the h-gasket response, but, I said that there was no
> overnight/cold-start odor. Not a slap, B. Just sorry you went that
> far in the response....cause you wrote A TON!
well, it's good you're not in that position. i wrote all that out not
just for you, but because it's a common problem and others may benefit.
> -
> Thanks dudes. K.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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