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* Worth Paying for one more rotation? - 5 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/1e4ae2db420be1ee?hl=en
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TOPIC: Worth Paying for one more rotation?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/1e4ae2db420be1ee?hl=en
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== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 22 2011 7:34 pm
From: "Bluto"
Mr. Beam, my posts are on the top when I reply, don't know what the
newsgroup does after. Guess I don't post enough to be an expert like you
are. Oh well, we all can't be experts.
ass posting is a real pain in the top - please don't.
as elmo says, abs can't help you outperform available traction. but it
can help my grandmother effectively /stop/ standing on the brake long
after she's starting to slide and thus retain some chance of control.
why the government sees fit to save the incapable from themselves with
things like abs is something you need to take up with your
representatives [but if you actually want to be heard, be prepared to
hand over the same or more then the oilco lobbyists who encourage
anything that adds to a vehicles weight and/or fuel consumption].
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 23 2011 4:22 am
From: Tegger
"Bluto" <yeager@hotmail.com> wrote in news:G-SdnYOwRJKmO5
_TnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@earthlink.com:
>
> Mr. Beam, my posts are on the top when I reply, don't know what the
> newsgroup does after.
The "group" does nothing to your post. Top- or bottom-posting is
established by the poster.
> Guess I don't post enough to be an expert like you
> are. Oh well, we all can't be experts.
>
>
> ass posting is a real pain in the top - please don't.
If you want to scold people on how to post, you should at least learn how
to separate quoted text from your reply. Without some sort of separation,
it's difficult to know where your reply ends and the quoted text begins.
And, as a Usenetter since about 1999, I can tell you that Usenet is
traditionally a bottom-posting milieu.
--
Tegger
== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 23 2011 8:47 am
From: Al
On 6/20/2011 7:48 PM, Tegger wrote:
> Paladin<gunslinger@1875.net> wrote in news:ito8o9$kn6$2@news.albasani.net:
>
>> On 6/20/11 3:14 PM, Tegger wrote:
>>> Paladin<gunslinger@sf1875.net> wrote in news:itm1dc$b7a$1
>>> @news.albasani.net:
>>>
>>>> The OEM tires on my '07 Accord EX-L V6 Sedan (Michelin Pilot MXM4,
>>>> 215/50-17) show even tread wear but three of them are between 5/32 and
>>>> 6/32 tread depth while the RF has 7/32. They've got about about 33,000
>>>> miles on them.
>>>>
>>>> I'm due for an A-1 service (oil change, tire rotation) and wondering if
>>>> it's worth paying for the rotation seeing as how they'll probably need
>>>> to replaced sooner rather than later.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> How much are they charging for the rotation itself?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> $20
>>
>
>
>
> For a measly $20, I'd get it done.
>
> Surely you'll get that back in slightly longer tire life, maybe even $20
> more life.
>
>
This thread raises some questions in my mind:
1. About how many miles might it take a 'rotated' tire wear off its
high spots and regain full contact? I imagine it would be about the
same as the miles it takes a brand new tire to achieve full contact?
2. If you paid $20. to have the tires rotated every 10,000 miles, you
would have invested $100. by 50,000 miles (about the price of a new
tire). Is is reasonable to expect rotations to extend the life of a set
of tires by 25%? I agree with beam's point about averaging the wear,
and even increasing it by having to wear off the high spots each time.
Of course many posters on this group do it themselves so only their time
is involved, but many others probably pay $40. or more for a rotation,
and many do 5,000 or 7,500 miles intervals.
3. How does front to back rotation vs cross rotation affect the
"contact" discussion?
4. I usually find that I don't like the feel of a car after rotation,
but I like to buy my tires 4 at a time rather than 2 at a time, which is
often what happens if you never rotate. What works for me is rotate
only once when the most worn tire appears to be at 50% and I do it front
to back (no cross).
== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 23 2011 9:09 am
From: jim beam
On 06/23/2011 08:47 AM, Al wrote:
> On 6/20/2011 7:48 PM, Tegger wrote:
>> Paladin<gunslinger@1875.net> wrote in
>> news:ito8o9$kn6$2@news.albasani.net:
>>
>>> On 6/20/11 3:14 PM, Tegger wrote:
>>>> Paladin<gunslinger@sf1875.net> wrote in news:itm1dc$b7a$1
>>>> @news.albasani.net:
>>>>
>>>>> The OEM tires on my '07 Accord EX-L V6 Sedan (Michelin Pilot MXM4,
>>>>> 215/50-17) show even tread wear but three of them are between 5/32 and
>>>>> 6/32 tread depth while the RF has 7/32. They've got about about 33,000
>>>>> miles on them.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm due for an A-1 service (oil change, tire rotation) and
>>>>> wondering if
>>>>> it's worth paying for the rotation seeing as how they'll probably need
>>>>> to replaced sooner rather than later.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> How much are they charging for the rotation itself?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> $20
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> For a measly $20, I'd get it done.
>>
>> Surely you'll get that back in slightly longer tire life, maybe even $20
>> more life.
>>
>>
>
>
> This thread raises some questions in my mind:
>
> 1. About how many miles might it take a 'rotated' tire wear off its high
> spots and regain full contact? I imagine it would be about the same as
> the miles it takes a brand new tire to achieve full contact?
it's more because it has to wear back to flat, then go past that to the
new profile.
>
> 2. If you paid $20. to have the tires rotated every 10,000 miles, you
> would have invested $100. by 50,000 miles (about the price of a new
> tire). Is is reasonable to expect rotations to extend the life of a set
> of tires by 25%? I agree with beam's point about averaging the wear, and
> even increasing it by having to wear off the high spots each time. Of
> course many posters on this group do it themselves so only their time is
> involved, but many others probably pay $40. or more for a rotation, and
> many do 5,000 or 7,500 miles intervals.
if you really want to rotate, the "least negative" impact you can have
is to keep each rubber block comparatively flat, like a new tire. but
to keep that, you'll have to rotate every few hundred miles.
>
> 3. How does front to back rotation vs cross rotation affect the
> "contact" discussion?
depends on the car. some vehicles are fundamentally awful, and no
amount of alignment or realignment seems to help them. in that case, i
doubt rotation has any serious negative effects. but for a good vehicle
with 4-wheel independent suspension, particularly those with multi-link
rears, the front/rear wear patterns are completely different, thus the
contact patches are completely different and rotation can have a
substantial negative effect.
>
> 4. I usually find that I don't like the feel of a car after rotation,
we've been discussing the reason for that! it's worst when crossing
side to side.
> but I like to buy my tires 4 at a time rather than 2 at a time, which is
> often what happens if you never rotate. What works for me is rotate only
> once when the most worn tire appears to be at 50% and I do it front to
> back (no cross).
i'm a fwd guy with same size front/rear, so i replace by axle - my
fronts always go first. when i replace them, the new ones always go on
the rear. then i'll brutalize the tires for a bit to make sure the
"new" fronts wear in as quickly as possible to restore maximum braking
again.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 23 2011 11:51 am
From: "Elmo P. Shagnasty"
In article <BvidnWLtyp60-J7TnZ2dnUVZ_hSdnZ2d@speakeasy.net>,
jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> if you really want to rotate, the "least negative" impact you can have
> is to keep each rubber block comparatively flat, like a new tire. but
> to keep that, you'll have to rotate every few hundred miles.
Ah--every oil change, then.
;-)
> i'm a fwd guy with same size front/rear, so i replace by axle - my
> fronts always go first. when i replace them, the new ones always go on
> the rear.
..thus preserving the understeer characteristics designed into the car.
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