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Today's topics:
* '93 Civic Si HB, Brake lights come on automatically ? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/2742fa7d209f67bd?hl=en
* Which relay is bad when fuel pump doesn't work? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/a9470a7ff02f31b8?hl=en
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TOPIC: '93 Civic Si HB, Brake lights come on automatically ?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/2742fa7d209f67bd?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 21 2011 6:10 pm
From: jim beam
On 08/21/2011 03:45 PM, Tegger wrote:
> jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote in
> news:85Gdne5M0sjzvMzTnZ2dnUVZ_tWgnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> On 08/21/2011 06:25 AM, robb wrote:
>>> One morning the brake lights are just magically on all by themselves.
>>>
>>> What is likely problem ?
>>>
>>> None of the following attempts clears up the problem.
>>>
>>>> push and release brake pedal several times
>>>> Cranking the engine turning lights on and off along with brake presses
>>>
>>> Thanks for any helpful advice or humorous anecdotes ,
>>> robb
>>
>> there's a small plastic plug on the brake pedal lever that activates the
>> brake light button. sometimes it cracks and falls out leaving the brake
>> lights on. look on the carpet and if you find some broken plastic
>> you've not seen before, that's it. just get a new one, push it in the
>> hole, and you're set.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> What he said.
>
> The part is about $5 at the dealer, and is available nowhere else.
>
>
you can also get them at junkyards. i got one there to repair a
friend's civic, and the yard's checkout people just waved me through.
just not worth charging for as far as they were concerned.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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TOPIC: Which relay is bad when fuel pump doesn't work?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/a9470a7ff02f31b8?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 22 2011 5:50 am
From: Tegger
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in
news:soj0579tkh3osakveeveibti5be4lgq589@4ax.com:
<snipped all of a very lengthy and confusingly-parsed post>
Browse through here:
<http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay>
It should give you a pretty good idea how to check what you need to check.
If you want to buy an aftermarket Main Relay and take a chance on that, go
right ahead. They're all crappy, so it doesn't matter which one you buy.
Keep the original just in case you need to put it back.
The key to diagnosing the Main Relay consists of two things:
1) the behavior of the MIL (AKA "Check Engine Light"), and
2) fuel pump operation during the key-on sequence.
It is critical to pause the key at each station of the ignition switch and
observe the EXACT behavior that occurs at each position. You must listen
carefully for the correct clicks, and for fuel-pump operation (hum or
whine) at the correct times.
To diagnose the fuel pump itself: feed battery voltage directly to it using
a jumper wire. It should run continously as long as power is applied. If it
runs continously, then it is, itself, fine. Although its power feed through
the Main Relay may still be suspect.
--
Tegger
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 22 2011 10:03 am
From: micky
On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:50:57 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@example.com>
wrote:
>micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in
>news:soj0579tkh3osakveeveibti5be4lgq589@4ax.com:
>
>
><snipped all of a very lengthy and confusingly-parsed post>
Sorry.
>
>Browse through here:
><http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay>
>It should give you a pretty good idea how to check what you need to check.
This is a great page! I sent the url to her, for this and other
problems she might someday have.
>If you want to buy an aftermarket Main Relay and take a chance on that, go
>right ahead. They're all crappy, so it doesn't matter which one you buy.
She's also getting advice from someone else, who said aftermarket
relays would be cheaper, so I looked into it for her. I'm surprised
to hear they're so bad.
I didnt' try to get the price on a real Honda part, because I figure
dealer stock is usually not online.
>Keep the original just in case you need to put it back.
Good idea.
>
>The key to diagnosing the Main Relay consists of two things:
>1) the behavior of the MIL (AKA "Check Engine Light"), and
>2) fuel pump operation during the key-on sequence.
>
>It is critical to pause the key at each station of the ignition switch and
>observe the EXACT behavior that occurs at each position. You must listen
>carefully for the correct clicks, and for fuel-pump operation (hum or
>whine) at the correct times.
Lookkng at your diagrrams on your webpage, I see why I was confused.
It's called a relay, but it's really at least two relays in sequence.
The first relay must work or the car wouldn't run with ether. The
second relay must be intermittent so sometimes the car doesn't start.
But I'll listen for the clicks too, and the check engine light. I
haven't sat in the car yet, and she's out now, along with her car. .
>To diagnose the fuel pump itself: feed battery voltage directly to it using
>a jumper wire. It should run continously as long as power is applied. If it
>runs continously, then it is, itself, fine. Although its power feed through
>the Main Relay may still be suspect.
I hope it doesn't come to that. I'm not changing her fuel pump. :)
Thanks a lot.
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