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Today's topics:
* 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating episodes.
- 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
* D15b3 vacuum line question - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/82119e27fa1a99fb?hl=en
* Which relay is bad when fuel pump doesn't work? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/a9470a7ff02f31b8?hl=en
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TOPIC: 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating
episodes.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 9:34 am
From: jim beam
On 08/24/2011 01:22 AM, Meatman wrote:
> My driver side fan runs with the A/C always...also runs after shut-off
> for the requisite 5-10 minutes. Never seen the right-side fan
> run...esp now that I'm looking for it. I'm having intermittent near-
> overheating episodes. But once the guage starts to climb and I dump
> the A/C and goto full HEATER on HI...that guage drops like a hot rock
> back to normal! And I mean in a matter of 10-15 seconds! Any engine
> overheating due to damage/lubrication and block/head heat will not
> move the guage from Critical to Normal just by introducing the heater
> core circulation. So it has to be more local, right? And no, I
> haven't invaded the coolant circuit for a year or so...and it's full.
> It has been bled-out. Sensor? T-stat? That other fan? Thanks
> dudes!
> -
> -
> See, isn't this better than BS posters from China posting spam rubbish
> every day? HAHA!!! A 'REAL tech question!
what tegger says on the thermo-switches.
but also consider the possibility of the head gasket going as being the
root of the overheating. [bubbles/foam in the coolant lower its density
and significantly reduce cooling capacity.]
i say this because your other fuel smell when reversing comment could be
that aromatic odor from when a little coolant has leaked into a cylinder
head overnight. and because head gasket is a common honda failure that
often goes undetected for a considerable period. the open deck honda
block means you just get gas in the coolant, you don't get much coolant
loss [until it's getting really bad] and you don't get oil in the
coolant or vice versa.
with the motor at full temperature and running, look in the coolant
expansion bottle. if you observe any bubbling, it's definitely head
gasket. you can confirm this with a chemical test if you want too.
if it ends up being gasket, i recommend a few of important things.
1. don't use abrasives in clean-up. even if you hose everything off
afterwards, it's next to impossible to remove tiny abrasive particles
from metal surfaces, and those inevitably end up circulating the system
causing significant premature wear.
2. try not to skim the head unless it's actually warped. and warping on
honda heads is rare. use gasket remover [chemical] and a razor blade
[thin, flexible] scraper at a shallow angle to avoid damaging the head
surface for clean-up. i've never yet seem a shop skim a head to the
same finish as oem. the small grooves they leave from the milling head
are small leakage channels - the head will be fine for a short while,
but will quickly start to leak again. avoid avoid avoid.
3. for the new gasket, i recommend "mls" [multi layer steel]. it's the
only solution that can begin to address the root cause of gasket failure
- the fact that there is small elastic distortion at the block/head
interface, and a gap tends to open up at the point furthest from the
head bolts. a [properly designed and made] "variable thickness" mls
gasket is the only solution that can address this since milling a head
or a block to be anything other than flat is impractical. [it works
like the bowed bed of a big rig trailer that ends up flat when loaded.]
4. when tightening head bolts, torque in the honda steps and sequence,
but go around at the final torque several times, paying particular
attention to the center two bolts. also use a bending beam wrench, not
a clicker. honda head bolts tend to be sticky, even when cleaned and
lubed [it's the aluminum/steel thing] and clicker wrenches sometimes
release on stickiness leaving a low torque. they also tend to creep
around, so again, torque and hold with the bending beam and follow it
around.
hth.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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TOPIC: D15b3 vacuum line question
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/82119e27fa1a99fb?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 25 2011 10:18 am
From: Juan-Pierre Herboth
hi there.
I recently bought a 95 Honda ballade(I'm from South Africa elsewhere
its called a civic)
1.5 16v carb.
I recently replaced the timing belt and noticed a vacuum line that
have been blanked off.
It is part of 3 branches. One comes from the air intake to the air-
filter, the other from the
distributor housing(I assume it to be the vacuum advance) and the
blanked off one. They all come join up and seem to enter the back of
the engine (possible the carb).
My question is that I would like to know what this blanked off line is
for. I see that
there is what looks like it could be a connection on the distributor
cap, but I'm not sure.
I didn't get an owners manual with the car, I was able to download one
online, but its
for International models and does not include the carb model and thus
I cannot
determine what to do with it. The car drives fine, but I would like
things to be working the way they were designed to.
Kind regards
JP
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 25 2011 11:16 am
From: Tegger
Juan-Pierre Herboth <jpherboth@gmail.com> wrote in news:d91b5645-ba42-4c7b-
9cd4-3a6842a44b78@18g2000yqu.googlegroups.com:
> hi there.
> I recently bought a 95 Honda ballade(I'm from South Africa elsewhere
> its called a civic)
> 1.5 16v carb.
> I recently replaced the timing belt and noticed a vacuum line that
> have been blanked off.
> It is part of 3 branches. One comes from the air intake to the air-
> filter, the other from the
> distributor housing(I assume it to be the vacuum advance) and the
> blanked off one. They all come join up and seem to enter the back of
> the engine (possible the carb).
> My question is that I would like to know what this blanked off line is
> for. I see that
> there is what looks like it could be a connection on the distributor
> cap, but I'm not sure.
> I didn't get an owners manual with the car, I was able to download one
> online, but its
> for International models and does not include the carb model and thus
> I cannot
> determine what to do with it. The car drives fine, but I would like
> things to be working the way they were designed to.
> Kind regards
> JP
>
Photos? We haven't had carbs on Hondas since 1990, so your setup may be
different from what we ever had.
--
Tegger
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 25 2011 7:13 pm
From: jim beam
On 08/25/2011 10:18 AM, Juan-Pierre Herboth wrote:
> hi there.
> I recently bought a 95 Honda ballade(I'm from South Africa elsewhere
> its called a civic)
> 1.5 16v carb.
> I recently replaced the timing belt and noticed a vacuum line that
> have been blanked off.
> It is part of 3 branches. One comes from the air intake to the air-
> filter, the other from the
> distributor housing(I assume it to be the vacuum advance) and the
> blanked off one. They all come join up and seem to enter the back of
> the engine (possible the carb).
> My question is that I would like to know what this blanked off line is
> for. I see that
> there is what looks like it could be a connection on the distributor
> cap, but I'm not sure.
> I didn't get an owners manual with the car, I was able to download one
> online, but its
> for International models and does not include the carb model and thus
> I cannot
> determine what to do with it. The car drives fine, but I would like
> things to be working the way they were designed to.
> Kind regards
> JP
maybe the online usa versions dating back to 87 or older will show it.
here, the civic went injected in 88, but i understand that with other
markets, the technology only crept in slowly - for instance, in europe,
they kept carbs for a generation longer than us, then as we went from
throttle body injection to 4-point, they got the throttle body injection.
worth looking.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 25 2011 9:08 pm
From: Juan-Pierre Herboth
thanx,Ill try finding a manual to look.How does one load pictures on
here?
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 25 2011 9:38 pm
From: jim beam
On 08/25/2011 09:08 PM, Juan-Pierre Herboth wrote:
> thanx,Ill try finding a manual to look.How does one load pictures on
> here?
you can't directly, but you can load them to a photo sharing site, then
post the links. tinypic.com works just fine.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 25 2011 9:54 pm
From: Juan-Pierre Herboth
thanx.Ill take some and let you guys have a look at this old
technology=)
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TOPIC: Which relay is bad when fuel pump doesn't work?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/a9470a7ff02f31b8?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Aug 25 2011 11:13 am
From: Tegger
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in
news:4k3a57l6t26e08l07j7q5r4tqjq87kn614@4ax.com:
>
> 1) In the 2001 EX is it obvious how to take off the panel in front of
> the relay? Are there screws visible or is there some hidden latch?
There are usually screws plus hidden plastic-clips similar to those in
the Web page I referenced.
You need to tug gently to see where the clips are, then apply pulling
force as close to the clips as you can.
Be certain to get ALL the screws! Some may not be in obvious locations!
> Can you give me a clue where to start? Does it relate to the fuse
> box? Her fuse box cover she took off -- it is big but on the side of
> the dash and only visible when the driver's door is open.
The location should be shown in one of the sequences I show on the Web
page I referenced.
If not, you'll know what the Relay looks like, so just keep looking
until you find it. You can cycle the key on-and-off to make the Relay
click, which will help you locate it.
>
>
> 2) I read one guy's story on the web who couldn't get the relay out of
> its bracket. He'd already unplugged the connector and tested the new
> relay, but couldn't get old relay out to do a nice looking job. The
> one in the pictures from your webpage bolted on, but if this 2000 EX
> is one that clips on, is there a trick to getting it out.
A new OEM Relay will come with a metal clip. This clip is what bolts to
the car's interior. The clip can be removed from the Relay and
reinserted upside down for those applications where it needs to be that
way.
If your aftermarket Relay comes without a clip (likely), you're meant to
re-use the clip on the Relay that's in the car right now.
Some people manage to remove the Relay from its clip without unbolting
the clip from the interior. I've never done that.
>
>
> If this were my own car, I'd just keep at these things or die trying,
> but I don't want her thinking half-way through shat she made a mistake
> in letting me do this. Even if I finish it an hour or two later and
> it's perfect. .
>
Take your time and use common sense. This is an easy job. I just hope
this fixes your issue, othewise it will just be time and money wasted.
--
Tegger
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