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Today's topics:
* D15b3 vacuum line question - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/82119e27fa1a99fb?hl=en
* 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating episodes.
- 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
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TOPIC: D15b3 vacuum line question
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/82119e27fa1a99fb?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 28 2011 12:53 pm
From: jim beam
On 08/28/2011 11:38 AM, Tegger wrote:
> Juan-Pierre Herboth<jpherboth@gmail.com> wrote in news:7dde4e0a-caf6-4dd6-
> bd98-bb8ec6948fa3@h6g2000yqe.googlegroups.com:
>
>> Regarding the corugated pipe, this is my 2nd Honda
>> and both had the same snorkel on the aircleaner and a similar pipe on
>> the exhaust manifold cover.I assumed that it could be for colder
>> climates to pre-heat the air.
>
>
>
> That's correct. It's to help vaporize fuel in the carb when the temperature
> is near or below freezing.
nah, it's an icing thing. important in a moist cold climate.
/essential/ with ethanol fuels that contain their own moisture.
>
>
>
>
>
>> However on both Honda's thats missing.I
>> guess since we here in South Africa generally have weather never
>> goiing below 10 deg C that we dont make use of that.Thanx again
>
>
>
> Where you are, you don't need it.
>
>
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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TOPIC: 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating
episodes.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
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== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 30 2011 12:38 am
From: Meatman
Not head-gasket. .....I retraced my/and brother's test and confirmed
this in my case, at least: Ran car well up to temp (several hours).
Know that BOTH fans should run when A/C is on. They
weren't...HOWEVER...with only condenser fan running I took a weak
stick/twig and spun the fan blade manually (rad fan on pass side)...it
would start/stop after a few rev's or would would run continuous for
maybe a minute, always ridiculously slow and just barely getting
along. 265k on this fan motor, mind you. Further, I put probes in
connector at fan motor and proper voltage was continuous for 10
mins....but no fan spin unless I 'helped' it as above. Therefore,
it's the motor IMHO given the continuous power at connector and fact
that it runs, then falters after external help.
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 30 2011 4:14 am
From: Tegger
Meatman <KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote in news:3879eca7-519c-4e3d-9ac1-
cf523673a3f6@i9g2000yqk.googlegroups.com:
>
> Not head-gasket. .....I retraced my/and brother's test and confirmed
> this in my case, at least: Ran car well up to temp (several hours).
> Know that BOTH fans should run when A/C is on. They
> weren't...HOWEVER...with only condenser fan running I took a weak
> stick/twig and spun the fan blade manually (rad fan on pass side)...it
> would start/stop after a few rev's or would would run continuous for
> maybe a minute, always ridiculously slow and just barely getting
> along. 265k on this fan motor, mind you. Further, I put probes in
> connector at fan motor and proper voltage was continuous for 10
> mins....but no fan spin unless I 'helped' it as above. Therefore,
> it's the motor IMHO given the continuous power at connector and fact
> that it runs, then falters after external help.
>
I agree with your findings.
My suspicions arose from the fact that it's far more common for the timers
to fail than for the motor to fail. New motors are close to $400. Honda
builds them VERY well.
--
Tegger
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 30 2011 10:14 am
From: jim beam
On 08/30/2011 12:38 AM, Meatman wrote:
>
> Not head-gasket. .....I retraced my/and brother's test and confirmed
> this in my case, at least:
ok good. i bleat about head gaskets because it is often undiagnosed
until it gets really bad, and causes other expensive problems like dead
catalytic converters.
> Ran car well up to temp (several hours).
> Know that BOTH fans should run when A/C is on. They
> weren't...HOWEVER...with only condenser fan running I took a weak
> stick/twig and spun the fan blade manually (rad fan on pass side)...it
> would start/stop after a few rev's or would would run continuous for
> maybe a minute, always ridiculously slow and just barely getting
> along. 265k on this fan motor, mind you. Further, I put probes in
> connector at fan motor and proper voltage was continuous for 10
> mins....but no fan spin unless I 'helped' it as above. Therefore,
> it's the motor IMHO given the continuous power at connector and fact
> that it runs, then falters after external help.
good diagnostic. while it's possible to recondition the bearings in
motors like this, it's generally a pita - just replace.
when fitting the replacement motor, try to get some sealant or grease
into the mounting to prevent water ingress, the most likely cause. and
make sure the water drain isn't obstructed. i would also change the
thermoswitch - if it's been switching against a stationary motor, it
will have been loaded much more than normal and is likely to be
overheated and not much longer for this world.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 30 2011 10:15 am
From: jim beam
On 08/30/2011 04:14 AM, Tegger wrote:
> Meatman<KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote in news:3879eca7-519c-4e3d-9ac1-
> cf523673a3f6@i9g2000yqk.googlegroups.com:
>
>>
>> Not head-gasket. .....I retraced my/and brother's test and confirmed
>> this in my case, at least: Ran car well up to temp (several hours).
>> Know that BOTH fans should run when A/C is on. They
>> weren't...HOWEVER...with only condenser fan running I took a weak
>> stick/twig and spun the fan blade manually (rad fan on pass side)...it
>> would start/stop after a few rev's or would would run continuous for
>> maybe a minute, always ridiculously slow and just barely getting
>> along. 265k on this fan motor, mind you. Further, I put probes in
>> connector at fan motor and proper voltage was continuous for 10
>> mins....but no fan spin unless I 'helped' it as above. Therefore,
>> it's the motor IMHO given the continuous power at connector and fact
>> that it runs, then falters after external help.
>>
>
>
>
> I agree with your findings.
>
> My suspicions arose from the fact that it's far more common for the timers
> to fail than for the motor to fail. New motors are close to $400. Honda
> builds them VERY well.
>
honda doesn't build them, they buy them in. and they charge about 10x
what you could buy them for if you were sourcing them from their
original supplier. if you were buying retail. which of course they
are not.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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