http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda?hl=en
rec.autos.makers.honda@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* OBIEE DBA - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/ebe688ab3bf19bb4?hl=en
* Accord 98 V6 265k sudden gas fuel odors. EVAP? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/e2b44bda7b6262c7?hl=en
* Headlight lens skin flaking peeling. Is there a remedy? - 2 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/fb864b8f98d23d7b?hl=en
* 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating episodes.
- 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
* Which relay is bad when fuel pump doesn't work? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/a9470a7ff02f31b8?hl=en
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TOPIC: OBIEE DBA
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/ebe688ab3bf19bb4?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Aug 23 2011 9:06 am
From: Orange Ani
Staff Orange is looking for Oracle OBIEE DATABASE ADMINISTRATOR
Title : Oracle OBIEE DATABASE ADMINISTRATOR
Duration : 6+ Months
Location : Brooklyn, New York [[ Face to face interview in Brooklyn,
NY required after initial screening "Client will not bare travel
expenses" ]]
NEED CANDIDATES ASAP
Description:
Must have a minimum of 3-5 years of hands on experience on Oracle
Business Intelligence Enterprise Edition (OBIEE) Installation,
configuration, maintenance troubleshooting and support. OBIEE is on
UNIX/Linux platforms with Red Hat OS.
Must be experienced with ETL on UNIX/Linux platforms with Red Hat OS.
Must have a minimum of 5 years Oracle DBA experience and clear
understanding of Oracle Databases including current 10g/11g. Must have
a minimum of 2 years' experience in Oracle Real Application Clusters
(RAC) 10g/11g on UNIX/Linux platforms preferably
HP-UX/Red Hat Linux. Hands on experience with Oracle BI applications/
tech stack/database upgrades, cloning, patching, Catalog/Repository
Migrations, and
backups/recovery. Experience in Integration OBIEE with Oracle Single
Sign-on (SSO) and Oracle Internet Directory (OID) Experience in
Installation and Configuration of OBIEE in High Availability cluster
mode for Analytics, BI Publisher & Scheduler. Good understanding and
exposure using Load Balancer required for OBIEE with SSL Offloading &
SSL configurations. Good understanding & exposure on Storage, Network,
server technology, operating systems. Good interpersonal,
communication and documentation skills.
Additional Skills (Skills that are a plus, but not required)
Hands on experience on Installation and configuration of Oracle
Identity Management Infrastructure and Single Sign On (SSO). Again
this in on UNIX/Linux platforms with Red Hat OS. Exposure or exposure
to Oracle E-Business Suite Application Administration R12/11i Exposure
to OLAP Techniques and Tools. Exposure to Oracle BI Publisher
development activities.
Assignment
Successful candidate expected to be part of the Application/Database
Administration team to support Oracle Business Intelligence and Data
Warehouse Implementation and Operations, which includes Oracle OBIEE
(Oracle Business Intelligence Enterprise Edition), BI Analytics, E-
Business Suite and Oracle Enterprise Performance Management (Hyperion)
environments.
Key job functions include but not limited to Installation,
Configuration, patching and upgrades of Oracle Business Intelligence
Enterprise Edition and Business Analytics Applications
Installation, Configuration, patching and upgrades of ETL Tools
(Informatica) on UNIX/Linux platforms with Red Hat OS
Installation, Configuration, patching and upgrades of Oracle Core
technology products Database, Application servers, Middleware and
Security Management.
Support the efforts of the infrastructure planning, environments
sourcing during plan, design, build, test, and deployment phases.
Perform cross-functional coordination activities to facilitate
dependent data sources availability (Oracle ERP, PSFT, Hyperion and
Legacy)
Support performance test plan, design and execution activities.
Regards
ANISH
Orange Information Technology Solutions
anishg@stafforange.com
952-314-2730
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Accord 98 V6 265k sudden gas fuel odors. EVAP?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/e2b44bda7b6262c7?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 1:01 am
From: Meatman
1998 Accord EX V6 w/ 265k. No priors on this issue. Very sudden for
about a week now. Not overwhelming. Nothing 'visible' in engine
compartment (such as a fuel leak 'stain'). Nothing on ground under
car. No odor when going out in morning/cold start, etc. Odor
presents to me after parking/idling and exiting the car. Also
noticeable when backing down a driveway with door open to see where
I'm going. I do have the basic and V6 Helms on this car. I see the
components, etc. What are my likely culprits to address/inspect first
with regards to the vapors. Canister forward of Driver Rear Wheel?
Thanks, dudes!
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 5:47 am
From: Tegger
Meatman <KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote in news:572c8b84-cfc6-472a-9417-
7d7ca9bb24e5@g9g2000yqb.googlegroups.com:
> 1998 Accord EX V6 w/ 265k. No priors on this issue. Very sudden for
> about a week now. Not overwhelming. Nothing 'visible' in engine
> compartment (such as a fuel leak 'stain'). Nothing on ground under
> car. No odor when going out in morning/cold start, etc. Odor
> presents to me after parking/idling and exiting the car. Also
> noticeable when backing down a driveway with door open to see where
> I'm going. I do have the basic and V6 Helms on this car. I see the
> components, etc. What are my likely culprits to address/inspect first
> with regards to the vapors. Canister forward of Driver Rear Wheel?
> Thanks, dudes!
>
Fuel return line is rusted-out. That should be just inboard of the driver's
rear wheel, covered by a plastic shield.
--
Tegger
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Headlight lens skin flaking peeling. Is there a remedy?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/fb864b8f98d23d7b?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 1:09 am
From: Meatman
98 Accord again. The 'skin' on my...and many others'...headlight
lenses has flaked/failed and come off. And not recently. I noticed
it at least 7 years ago. Was told this was a mandated 'anti-glare'
coating by the DOT or similar. Either way: tons of fix-it kits and
polishing compounds sold for this everywhere. Any hope for the Hondas
with aftermarket remedies? Or just new lenses? Thx.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 5:47 am
From: Tegger
Meatman <KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote in news:c9155509-e7a5-4ae9-9864-
d7fe99892228@z18g2000yqb.googlegroups.com:
> 98 Accord again. The 'skin' on my...and many others'...headlight
> lenses has flaked/failed and come off. And not recently. I noticed
> it at least 7 years ago. Was told this was a mandated 'anti-glare'
> coating by the DOT or similar. Either way: tons of fix-it kits and
> polishing compounds sold for this everywhere. Any hope for the Hondas
> with aftermarket remedies? Or just new lenses? Thx.
>
The kits work very well.
--
Tegger
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 98 Accord cooling fans. What operates and when? Erratic overheating
episodes.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/88aca81667cc12af?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 1:22 am
From: Meatman
My driver side fan runs with the A/C always...also runs after shut-off
for the requisite 5-10 minutes. Never seen the right-side fan
run...esp now that I'm looking for it. I'm having intermittent near-
overheating episodes. But once the guage starts to climb and I dump
the A/C and goto full HEATER on HI...that guage drops like a hot rock
back to normal! And I mean in a matter of 10-15 seconds! Any engine
overheating due to damage/lubrication and block/head heat will not
move the guage from Critical to Normal just by introducing the heater
core circulation. So it has to be more local, right? And no, I
haven't invaded the coolant circuit for a year or so...and it's full.
It has been bled-out. Sensor? T-stat? That other fan? Thanks
dudes!
-
-
See, isn't this better than BS posters from China posting spam rubbish
every day? HAHA!!! A 'REAL tech question!
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 5:54 am
From: Tegger
Meatman <KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote in news:003e0486-f13b-42f9-be12-
87271c755081@k15g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
> My driver side fan runs with the A/C always...also runs after shut-off
> for the requisite 5-10 minutes. Never seen the right-side fan
> run...esp now that I'm looking for it. I'm having intermittent near-
> overheating episodes. But once the guage starts to climb and I dump
> the A/C and goto full HEATER on HI...that guage drops like a hot rock
> back to normal! And I mean in a matter of 10-15 seconds! Any engine
> overheating due to damage/lubrication and block/head heat will not
> move the guage from Critical to Normal just by introducing the heater
> core circulation. So it has to be more local, right? And no, I
> haven't invaded the coolant circuit for a year or so...and it's full.
> It has been bled-out. Sensor? T-stat? That other fan? Thanks
> dudes!
The rad fan (the right one) has two temperature and/or timer switches. One
of them is bad. I /think/ there are two of them, and not just one.
You said earlier you have the Helms manual for the car. Go to the A/C
section and you should find the switches' locations and how to test them.
--
Tegger
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 9:34 am
From: jim beam
On 08/24/2011 01:22 AM, Meatman wrote:
> My driver side fan runs with the A/C always...also runs after shut-off
> for the requisite 5-10 minutes. Never seen the right-side fan
> run...esp now that I'm looking for it. I'm having intermittent near-
> overheating episodes. But once the guage starts to climb and I dump
> the A/C and goto full HEATER on HI...that guage drops like a hot rock
> back to normal! And I mean in a matter of 10-15 seconds! Any engine
> overheating due to damage/lubrication and block/head heat will not
> move the guage from Critical to Normal just by introducing the heater
> core circulation. So it has to be more local, right? And no, I
> haven't invaded the coolant circuit for a year or so...and it's full.
> It has been bled-out. Sensor? T-stat? That other fan? Thanks
> dudes!
> -
> -
> See, isn't this better than BS posters from China posting spam rubbish
> every day? HAHA!!! A 'REAL tech question!
what tegger says on the thermo-switches.
but also consider the possibility of the head gasket going as being the
root of the overheating. [bubbles/foam in the coolant lower its density
and significantly reduce cooling capacity.]
i say this because your other fuel smell when reversing comment could be
that aromatic odor from when a little coolant has leaked into a cylinder
head overnight. and because head gasket is a common honda failure that
often goes undetected for a considerable period. the open deck honda
block means you just get gas in the coolant, you don't get much coolant
loss [until it's getting really bad] and you don't get oil in the
coolant or vice versa.
with the motor at full temperature and running, look in the coolant
expansion bottle. if you observe any bubbling, it's definitely head
gasket. you can confirm this with a chemical test if you want too.
if it ends up being gasket, i recommend a few of important things.
1. don't use abrasives in clean-up. even if you hose everything off
afterwards, it's next to impossible to remove tiny abrasive particles
from metal surfaces, and those inevitably end up circulating the system
causing significant premature wear.
2. try not to skim the head unless it's actually warped. and warping on
honda heads is rare. use gasket remover [chemical] and a razor blade
[thin, flexible] scraper at a shallow angle to avoid damaging the head
surface for clean-up. i've never yet seem a shop skim a head to the
same finish as oem. the small grooves they leave from the milling head
are small leakage channels - the head will be fine for a short while,
but will quickly start to leak again. avoid avoid avoid.
3. for the new gasket, i recommend "mls" [multi layer steel]. it's the
only solution that can begin to address the root cause of gasket failure
- the fact that there is small elastic distortion at the block/head
interface, and a gap tends to open up at the point furthest from the
head bolts. a [properly designed and made] "variable thickness" mls
gasket is the only solution that can address this since milling a head
or a block to be anything other than flat is impractical. [it works
like the bowed bed of a big rig trailer that ends up flat when loaded.]
4. when tightening head bolts, torque in the honda steps and sequence,
but go around at the final torque several times, paying particular
attention to the center two bolts. also use a bending beam wrench, not
a clicker. honda head bolts tend to be sticky, even when cleaned and
lubed [it's the aluminum/steel thing] and clicker wrenches sometimes
release on stickiness leaving a low torque. they also tend to creep
around, so again, torque and hold with the bending beam and follow it
around.
hth.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Which relay is bad when fuel pump doesn't work?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/a9470a7ff02f31b8?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 24 2011 7:56 am
From: micky
On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 12:50:57 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@example.com>
wrote:
>micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in
>news:soj0579tkh3osakveeveibti5be4lgq589@4ax.com:
>
>
><snipped all of a very lengthy and confusingly-parsed post>
>
>
>Browse through here:
><http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#mainrelay>
>It should give you a pretty good idea how to check what you need to check.
>
>If you want to buy an aftermarket Main Relay and take a chance on that, go
>right ahead. They're all crappy, so it doesn't matter which one you buy.
>Keep the original just in case you need to put it back.
>
>The key to diagnosing the Main Relay consists of two things:
>1) the behavior of the MIL (AKA "Check Engine Light"), and
>2) fuel pump operation during the key-on sequence.
>
>It is critical to pause the key at each station of the ignition switch and
>observe the EXACT behavior that occurs at each position. You must listen
>carefully for the correct clicks, and for fuel-pump operation (hum or
>whine) at the correct times.
>
>To diagnose the fuel pump itself: feed battery voltage directly to it using
>a jumper wire. It should run continously as long as power is applied. If it
>runs continously, then it is, itself, fine. Although its power feed through
>the Main Relay may still be suspect.
I sent copies of your posts to my neighbor, and she wants me to
replace the relay with a Honda relay, which she's going to buy before
the weekend. (Her car has run okay since last Saturday.)
I'm concerned about two things.
1) In the 2001 EX is it obvious how to take off the panel in front of
the relay? Are there screws visible or is there some hidden latch?
Can you give me a clue where to start? Does it relate to the fuse
box? Her fuse box cover she took off -- it is big but on the side of
the dash and only visible when the driver's door is open.
2) I read one guy's story on the web who couldn't get the relay out of
its bracket. He'd already unplugged the connector and tested the new
relay, but couldn't get old relay out to do a nice looking job. The
one in the pictures from your webpage bolted on, but if this 2000 EX
is one that clips on, is there a trick to getting it out.
If this were my own car, I'd just keep at these things or die trying,
but I don't want her thinking half-way through shat she made a mistake
in letting me do this. Even if I finish it an hour or two later and
it's perfect. .
Thanks again.
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