http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda?hl=en
rec.autos.makers.honda@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* 04 Civic EX CEL P0135 and P0134 - 8 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/9ecc24afb7e92749?hl=en
* Prius key replacement (was Re: Need New Key, 2011 Fit) - 2 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/81ca645177583bd2?hl=en
* 04 Civic EX Automatic Overheating - 7 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/5f1dca5f45847ad9?hl=en
* 04 Civic EX Automatic Speedo Not Working - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/42e479aa92265362?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 04 Civic EX CEL P0135 and P0134
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/9ecc24afb7e92749?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 1 2011 8:37 pm
From: ndccpf1
EX Automatic (1.7 VTEC) had CEL of P0134 Bank1 Sensor 1. I tested the
whte and green plug lead (heater) and was extremely his resistance. I
changed for a $ 70 OEM Denso.
Now I get P0135 O2 Circuit not Active Bank 1. Could it be the wrong O2
sensor or a bad one out of the box ?
== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 3:45 am
From: Meatman
IMHO, the O2 sensor codes are some of the most common AND deceptive/
money-wasting on record for the impulsive and/or intermediate/
uninitiated mechanic. They aren't necessarily wrong, but they both
(upstream & downstream) can have several causes. I have a basic scan
tool (limited in it's diagnostic details of course) and can't count
the number of folks that I've loaned it to (or scanned myself) where
it said it was this or that O2 sensor or bank 1 or bank 2...and they
replaced it, and BOOM! The same code returns. Just saying: If it
says it's an O2 sensor, it definitely may be, but several other
factors go into what the O2 sensors read, and how 'other' probs can
throw these codes and cause a false negative on the O2 sensors.
-
From here I defer to my personal deities on this board for a proper
face-slap or portion of gruel: Tigger, Beamer, Nasty, and Grumps.
== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 5:25 am
From: ndccpf1
On Oct 2, 6:45 am, Meatman <KevinLe...@comcast.net> wrote:
> IMHO, the O2 sensor codes are some of the most common AND deceptive/
> money-wasting on record for the impulsive and/or intermediate/
> uninitiated mechanic. They aren't necessarily wrong, but they both
> (upstream & downstream) can have several causes. I have a basic scan
> tool (limited in it's diagnostic details of course) and can't count
> the number of folks that I've loaned it to (or scanned myself) where
> it said it was this or that O2 sensor or bank 1 or bank 2...and they
> replaced it, and BOOM! The same code returns. Just saying: If it
> says it's an O2 sensor, it definitely may be, but several other
> factors go into what the O2 sensors read, and how 'other' probs can
> throw these codes and cause a false negative on the O2 sensors.
> -
> From here I defer to my personal deities on this board for a proper
> face-slap or portion of gruel: Tigger, Beamer, Nasty, and Grumps.
Another poster / forum reply was apparently the store sold me the
Narrow Band (for VTEC-E) and I need the Wide Band for VTEC. I will be
calling them today. Narrow band is $ 70 and Wide Band is $ 270.00
(Honda wants $ 370.00).
Have used my scanning tool for a few other O2 sensor replacemts in the
past and all worked well. Now the finer details show themselves on the
secifics of the engine (VTEC-E and VTEC are same liter and
displacement).
Many thanks !
== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 8:50 am
From: jim beam
On 10/02/2011 05:25 AM, ndccpf1 wrote:
> On Oct 2, 6:45�am, Meatman<KevinLe...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> IMHO, the O2 sensor codes are some of the most common AND deceptive/
>> money-wasting on record for the impulsive and/or intermediate/
>> uninitiated mechanic. �They aren't necessarily wrong, but they both
>> (upstream& downstream) can have several causes. �I have a basic scan
>> tool (limited in it's diagnostic details of course) and can't count
>> the number of folks that I've loaned it to (or scanned myself) where
>> it said it was this or that O2 sensor or bank 1 or bank 2...and they
>> replaced it, and BOOM! �The same code returns. � Just saying: �If it
>> says it's an O2 sensor, it definitely may be, but several other
>> factors go into what the O2 sensors read, and how 'other' probs can
>> throw these codes and cause a false negative on the O2 sensors.
>> -
>> From here I defer to my personal deities on this board for a proper
>> face-slap or portion of gruel: �Tigger, Beamer, Nasty, and Grumps.
>
> Another poster / forum reply was apparently the store sold me the
> Narrow Band (for VTEC-E) and I need the Wide Band for VTEC. I will be
> calling them today. Narrow band is $ 70 and Wide Band is $ 270.00
> (Honda wants $ 370.00).
> Have used my scanning tool for a few other O2 sensor replacemts in the
> past and all worked well. Now the finer details show themselves on the
> secifics of the engine (VTEC-E and VTEC are same liter and
> displacement).
>
> Many thanks !
i would go to denso's website, look up their part number, then dags for
online retailers listing that number. amazon for instance. you can
also try ntk sensors which sometimes are a little cheaper than denso,
but work fine on honda, unlike some of the other aftermarket stuff out
there like bosch.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 2:24 pm
From: Tegger
ndccpf1 <ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:83d63650-e30b-4d71-b095-
59bb432d92f0@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
> EX Automatic (1.7 VTEC) had CEL of P0134 Bank1 Sensor 1. I tested the
> whte and green plug lead (heater) and was extremely his resistance. I
> changed for a $ 70 OEM Denso.
>
> Now I get P0135 O2 Circuit not Active Bank 1. Could it be the wrong O2
> sensor or a bad one out of the box ?
Your car needs an A/F sensor, not an oxygen sensor. A/F sensors operate on
a different principle from ordinary oxygen sensors.
An oxygen sensor signal flip-flops between .1 and .9 VDC, while an A/F
sensor signal is a gradually varying voltage. The ECM can only read the
signal it's meant to read.
--
Tegger
== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 3:25 pm
From: jim beam
On 10/02/2011 02:24 PM, Tegger wrote:
> ndccpf1<ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:83d63650-e30b-4d71-b095-
> 59bb432d92f0@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>
>> EX Automatic (1.7 VTEC) had CEL of P0134 Bank1 Sensor 1. I tested the
>> whte and green plug lead (heater) and was extremely his resistance. I
>> changed for a $ 70 OEM Denso.
>>
>> Now I get P0135 O2 Circuit not Active Bank 1. Could it be the wrong O2
>> sensor or a bad one out of the box ?
>
>
>
> Your car needs an A/F sensor, not an oxygen sensor. A/F sensors operate on
> a different principle from ordinary oxygen sensors.
more commonly known as an afr [air fuel ratio] sensor, otherwise known
as a wide band sensor. it most definitely /is/ an oxygen sensor.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AFR_sensor#Wide-band_sensor>
>
> An oxygen sensor signal flip-flops between .1 and .9 VDC, while an A/F
> sensor signal is a gradually varying voltage. The ECM can only read the
> signal it's meant to read.
yup. see above.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 6:32 pm
From: Tegger
jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote in news:j6aoca$3h7$1@speranza.aioe.org:
> On 10/02/2011 02:24 PM, Tegger wrote:
>> ndccpf1<ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:83d63650-e30b-4d71-b095-
>> 59bb432d92f0@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>>
>>> EX Automatic (1.7 VTEC) had CEL of P0134 Bank1 Sensor 1. I tested
>>> the whte and green plug lead (heater) and was extremely his
>>> resistance. I changed for a $ 70 OEM Denso.
>>>
>>> Now I get P0135 O2 Circuit not Active Bank 1. Could it be the wrong
>>> O2 sensor or a bad one out of the box ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Your car needs an A/F sensor, not an oxygen sensor. A/F sensors
>> operate on a different principle from ordinary oxygen sensors.
>
> more commonly known as an afr [air fuel ratio] sensor, otherwise known
> as a wide band sensor. it most definitely /is/ an oxygen sensor.
Technically true, but the trade refers to the two by different names.
If you need an "air/fuel" ("A/F") sensor, you need to ask for that, not an
"oxygen sensor", regardless of whether you preface the phrase "oxygen
sensor" with "narrowband" or "wideband".
--
Tegger
== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 6:56 pm
From: jim beam
On 10/02/2011 06:32 PM, Tegger wrote:
> jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote in news:j6aoca$3h7$1@speranza.aioe.org:
>
>> On 10/02/2011 02:24 PM, Tegger wrote:
>>> ndccpf1<ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:83d63650-e30b-4d71-b095-
>>> 59bb432d92f0@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>>>
>>>> EX Automatic (1.7 VTEC) had CEL of P0134 Bank1 Sensor 1. I tested
>>>> the whte and green plug lead (heater) and was extremely his
>>>> resistance. I changed for a $ 70 OEM Denso.
>>>>
>>>> Now I get P0135 O2 Circuit not Active Bank 1. Could it be the wrong
>>>> O2 sensor or a bad one out of the box ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Your car needs an A/F sensor, not an oxygen sensor. A/F sensors
>>> operate on a different principle from ordinary oxygen sensors.
>>
>> more commonly known as an afr [air fuel ratio] sensor, otherwise known
>> as a wide band sensor. it most definitely /is/ an oxygen sensor.
>
>
>
>
> Technically true, but the trade refers to the two by different names.
>
> If you need an "air/fuel" ("A/F") sensor, you need to ask for that, not an
> "oxygen sensor", regardless of whether you preface the phrase "oxygen
> sensor" with "narrowband" or "wideband".
i'd rather we stuck with the technically true than the colloquially
misinterpretable.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Prius key replacement (was Re: Need New Key, 2011 Fit)
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/81ca645177583bd2?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 3:23 am
From: Meatman
I know, I know...flamethrowers ready everyone. And I know it can get
thin on posts here sometimes for sure. But there's A LOT of
'different' boards right? Looking for a polite slap where I'm
wrong...BUT, 3 weeks of posts here on a Prius key prob on the Honda
board? Hell, I guess it's better than the spam posts about killing
all US diplomats, people of interest, and what their 'crimes' were...I
guess :-)
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 6:32 am
From: "Elmo P. Shagnasty"
In article
<f9543437-1a13-448d-892a-cd6f24dbe313@k15g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>,
Meatman <KevinLee33@comcast.net> wrote:
> BUT, 3 weeks of posts here on a Prius key prob on the Honda
> board?
Well, to be fair it started with a Fit owner who needed a new key, and
kind of went off on a tangent.
The goal of the Prius key thing was to put some context to the whole
idea, and get it in people's minds that the newfangled fancy keys *can*
be replaced easier than many dealers would indicate.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 04 Civic EX Automatic Overheating
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/5f1dca5f45847ad9?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 9:02 am
From: jim beam
On 10/01/2011 08:18 PM, ndccpf1 wrote:
> Worked a a friend's 2004 Civic EX 1.7L VTEC today. Car overheating /
> no heat into passenger area / both cooling fans will come on only if
> AC is turned on. Main cooling fan not coming on.
check operation of the thermoswitch. they can and do fail.
> Changed T-stat with
> OEM Honda part
the right one for this vehicle? oriented correctly? not saying you
didn't but mistakes happen and have a big effect.
> and still temp gauge rises while car sits idling.
did you check the expansion bottle to see if there are bubbles when the
motor's running?
> Heater hoses into firewall one is cold other just barely warm. At
> first lower radiator hose was cool to touch then after car sat off not
> running the hose warmed up. Waterpump ?
unlikely - pumps hardly ever fail in a way that stops them pumping.
check the basics before guessing what the problem is:
does it have sufficient coolant? look in the radiator, not just the
expansion bottle.
what is that coolant like? clear? cruddy? is it properly concentrated
antifreeze or just water?
are the drive belts present? in good condition?
i'd fix the known problem first - the thermoswitch [it won't solve the
hose temperature anomalies, but a working one needs to be present], then
as part of the above, make sure it's not the head gasket. if the gasket
is leaking and the coolant circuit is full of bubbles, you'll not get
much heat transfer.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 9:08 am
From: "Elmo P. Shagnasty"
In article <j6a1u0$1jf$1@speranza.aioe.org>, jim beam <me@privacy.net>
wrote:
> > Changed T-stat with
> > OEM Honda part
>
> the right one for this vehicle? oriented correctly? not saying you
> didn't but mistakes happen and have a big effect.
been there, done that.
== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 9:35 am
From: jim beam
On 10/02/2011 09:08 AM, Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article<j6a1u0$1jf$1@speranza.aioe.org>, jim beam<me@privacy.net>
> wrote:
>
>>> Changed T-stat with
>>> OEM Honda part
>>
>> the right one for this vehicle? oriented correctly? not saying you
>> didn't but mistakes happen and have a big effect.
>
> been there, done that.
it's a particular problem on hondas because they use a bypass flow
design, and the thermostat needs to be both present and working for
routing to be correct.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 1:01 pm
From: ndccpf1
On Oct 2, 12:02 pm, jim beam <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> On 10/01/2011 08:18 PM, ndccpf1 wrote:
>
> > Worked a a friend's 2004 Civic EX 1.7L VTEC today. Car overheating /
> > no heat into passenger area / both cooling fans will come on only if
> > AC is turned on. Main cooling fan not coming on.
>
> check operation of the thermoswitch. they can and do fail.
Will have to check this one. It sticks out from the T-Stat housing
correct ?
>
> > Changed T-stat with
> > OEM Honda part
>
> the right one for this vehicle? oriented correctly? not saying you
> didn't but mistakes happen and have a big effect.
I gave the parts counter the VIN # of the car to help eliminate
mistakes but will have to go back and cross reference the part number
listed on the package.
>
> > and still temp gauge rises while car sits idling.
>
> did you check the expansion bottle to see if there are bubbles when the
> motor's running?
On this design no easy to look into the expansion tank down the neck.
> > Heater hoses into firewall one is cold other just barely warm. At
> > first lower radiator hose was cool to touch then after car sat off not
> > running the hose warmed up. Waterpump ?
>
> unlikely - pumps hardly ever fail in a way that stops them pumping.
I figured the pump would be OK just the seals could leak. However on
VWs / Audis they had been using waterpumps with plastic vanes that had
a high failure rate. Plastic are they for real !
>
> check the basics before guessing what the problem is:
>
> does it have sufficient coolant? look in the radiator, not just the
> expansion bottle.
>
I made sure I added the correct pre-mix into the radiator and
expansion tank ....in addition removing the air pockets.
> what is that coolant like? clear? cruddy? is it properly concentrated
> antifreeze or just water?
>
Old mix did not appear so bad I replaced with Pre-mixed Prestone.
> are the drive belts present? in good condition?
>
If belts were missing AC compressor would not work (AC works but no
heat), Powerr steering pump on top and see the belt there...and no
Battyer light on (Alternator OK)
> i'd fix the known problem first - the thermoswitch [it won't solve the
> hose temperature anomalies, but a working one needs to be present], then
> as part of the above, make sure it's not the head gasket. if the gasket
> is leaking and the coolant circuit is full of bubbles, you'll not get
> much heat transfer.
>
> --
> nomina rutrum rutrum
== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 2:26 pm
From: Tegger
ndccpf1 <ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:3e71b814-e467-493f-8afb-
35de44221bb2@d17g2000yqa.googlegroups.com:
> Worked a a friend's 2004 Civic EX 1.7L VTEC today. Car overheating /
> no heat into passenger area / both cooling fans will come on only if
> AC is turned on. Main cooling fan not coming on. Changed T-stat with
> OEM Honda part and still temp gauge rises while car sits idling.
> Heater hoses into firewall one is cold other just barely warm. At
> first lower radiator hose was cool to touch then after car sat off not
> running the hose warmed up. Waterpump ?
You are probably low on coolant, and thus no flow at idle.
When the engine starts to overheat, does the temperature go back down if
you rev the engine to 2,500rpm and hold it there?
--
Tegger
== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 5:07 pm
From: ndccpf1
On Oct 2, 5:26 pm, Tegger <inva...@example.com> wrote:
> ndccpf1 <ndcc...@gmail.com> wrote in news:3e71b814-e467-493f-8afb-
> 35de44221...@d17g2000yqa.googlegroups.com:
>
> > Worked a a friend's 2004 Civic EX 1.7L VTEC today. Car overheating /
> > no heat into passenger area / both cooling fans will come on only if
> > AC is turned on. Main cooling fan not coming on. Changed T-stat with
> > OEM Honda part and still temp gauge rises while car sits idling.
> > Heater hoses into firewall one is cold other just barely warm. At
> > first lower radiator hose was cool to touch then after car sat off not
> > running the hose warmed up. Waterpump ?
>
> You are probably low on coolant, and thus no flow at idle.
>
> When the engine starts to overheat, does the temperature go back down if
> you rev the engine to 2,500rpm and hold it there?
>
> --
> Tegger
After draining for the T-stat replacement, I topped off with new pre-
Mix and made sure the over flow bottle had it also. I also tried to
work the air out (capt off running).. What condition changes at the
extended 2,500 RPM ?
== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 6:28 pm
From: Tegger
ndccpf1 <ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:a1bd092b-b1af-48ab-a0ec-
15183cb6060b@j19g2000vbn.googlegroups.com:
> What condition changes at the
> extended 2,500 RPM ?
>
The water pump is able to kick even low amounts of fluid through the
system.
--
Tegger
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 04 Civic EX Automatic Speedo Not Working
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/t/42e479aa92265362?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 5:11 pm
From: ndccpf1
I know VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is on the tranny but for this year
Civic how accessable and where ? Is there a quick way to test the
sensor / output to determine it is bad ?
(same car that is overheating and CEL on).
Oh and the typical Honda failure of the hood-release pull knob
broken !
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 6:34 pm
From: Tegger
ndccpf1 <ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:83ca8821-0538-4099-bd01-
29ecd553a435@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
> I know VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is on the tranny
It's at the rear of the instrument cluster, in the dashboard.
> but for this year
> Civic how accessable and where ? Is there a quick way to test the
> sensor / output to determine it is bad ?
> (same car that is overheating and CEL on).
Have you considered that the concurrent presence of several unrelated DTCs
may indicate some other sort of problem?
--
Tegger
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 6:42 pm
From: jim beam
On 10/02/2011 06:34 PM, Tegger wrote:
> ndccpf1<ndccpf1@gmail.com> wrote in news:83ca8821-0538-4099-bd01-
> 29ecd553a435@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>
>> I know VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is on the tranny
>
>
> It's at the rear of the instrument cluster, in the dashboard.
only on cable driven speedos. the 04 speedo is all electronic, not
cable, and the sensor is on the transmission.
>
>
>> but for this year
>> Civic how accessable and where ? Is there a quick way to test the
>> sensor / output to determine it is bad ?
>> (same car that is overheating and CEL on).
>
>
> Have you considered that the concurrent presence of several unrelated DTCs
> may indicate some other sort of problem?
>
>
>
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 7:55 pm
From: ndccpf1
On Oct 2, 9:34 pm, Tegger <inva...@example.com> wrote:
> ndccpf1 <ndcc...@gmail.com> wrote in news:83ca8821-0538-4099-bd01-
> 29ecd553a...@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>
> > I know VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is on the tranny
>
> It's at the rear of the instrument cluster, in the dashboard.
>
> > but for this year
> > Civic how accessable and where ? Is there a quick way to test the
> > sensor / output to determine it is bad ?
> > (same car that is overheating and CEL on).
>
> Have you considered that the concurrent presence of several unrelated DTCs
> may indicate some other sort of problem?
>
> --
> Tegger
The CEL currently is the O2 sensor which I will replace Saturday. I
had a VSS go bad on my 1989 Accord LXI
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 7:57 pm
From: ndccpf1
On Oct 2, 9:42 pm, jim beam <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> On 10/02/2011 06:34 PM, Tegger wrote:
>
> > ndccpf1<ndcc...@gmail.com> wrote in news:83ca8821-0538-4099-bd01-
> > 29ecd553a...@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>
> >> I know VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is on the tranny
>
> > It's at the rear of the instrument cluster, in the dashboard.
>
> only on cable driven speedos. the 04 speedo is all electronic, not
> cable, and the sensor is on the transmission.
>
>
>
> >> but for this year
> >> Civic how accessable and where ? Is there a quick way to test the
> >> sensor / output to determine it is bad ?
> >> (same car that is overheating and CEL on).
>
> > Have you considered that the concurrent presence of several unrelated DTCs
> > may indicate some other sort of problem?
>
> --
> nomina rutrum rutrum
Can I reach the sensor by removing the battery ? or the air intake
"plumbing" / Or do I need to access from the bottom / back firewall
sside ?
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 2 2011 8:40 pm
From: jim beam
On 10/02/2011 07:57 PM, ndccpf1 wrote:
> On Oct 2, 9:42�pm, jim beam<m...@privacy.net> wrote:
>> On 10/02/2011 06:34 PM, Tegger wrote:
>>
>>> ndccpf1<ndcc...@gmail.com> �wrote in news:83ca8821-0538-4099-bd01-
>>> 29ecd553a...@j10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:
>>
>>>> I know VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is on the tranny
>>
>>> It's at the rear of the instrument cluster, in the dashboard.
>>
>> only on cable driven speedos. �the 04 speedo is all electronic, not
>> cable, and the sensor is on the transmission.
>>
>>
>>
>>>> but for this year
>>>> Civic how accessable and where ? Is there a quick way to test the
>>>> sensor / output to determine it is bad ?
>>>> (same car that is overheating and CEL on).
>>
>>> Have you considered that the concurrent presence of several unrelated DTCs
>>> may indicate some other sort of problem?
>>
>> --
>> nomina rutrum rutrum
>
> Can I reach the sensor by removing the battery ? or the air intake
> "plumbing" / Or do I need to access from the bottom / back firewall
> sside ?
usually on the firewall side. can reach from on top or underneath. do
you have the proper shop manual for this vehicle? if not, it's worth
investing in one. the official source is helm.com, but i'm not entirely
happy with them at present because they charged me full price for an
incomplete photocopy of a manual that was missing the wiring diagrams i
bought it for. they refused to give me a refund or take it back.
or you can go online at alldata.
you'll need this to confirm the testing process for the vss. usually
it's just a reed switch and you can see it click on and off with an ohm
meter as you rotate the diff.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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